Create a perennial bed: planting plan for all layers

When creating a perennial bed, there are a few things to consider - from the season to the right preparation and choice of the right plants. We have prepared a planting plan for you for semi-shady, shady and sunny locations and reveal the best perennial combinations.

Perennials are among the most valuable plants in the garden: Perennial beds that have been put together correctly bloom almost all year round, from early spring to late autumn, and thus offer insects a rich buffet. The sheer diversity of the plants invites a wide variety of insects to feast, hide and hibernate. But the correct creation of perennial beds presents many people with an almost impossible task: Which plants can grow where and how are they best combined? We explain exactly how to create a varied perennial border and name a large selection of plants for a perennial border in the sun, in partial shade and in the shade.

Creating a perennial bed: the right time of year

Spring and autumn are planting seasons! And that also applies to perennials, because at the beginning and end of the vegetation period the plants do not have to struggle with high temperatures and drought while they are growing. Nevertheless, planting with container goods can also be carried out in summer - balled or even bare-root plants will have a particularly difficult time in summer. If you want to plant in summer, you also have to be prepared for a watering marathon. Incidentally, planting is best done when the weather is overcast. The perennials should be stored in the shade and kept moist before planting.

Tip: If you have a little more space, you can also include smaller and larger shrubs in your perennial bed. In this way, shady and sunny areas can be created yourself and a very varied area is created. We recommend choosing bee-friendly shrubs for this. In summer you can listen to the buzzing of the busy insects and enjoy the scent of the flowers yourself.

How to create a new perennial bed: soil preparation

Regardless of whether you want to completely replant an existing bed or rededicate an area that has previously been used for other purposes: the planning and preparation of the area is the starting point. Curbs may still have to be set, old plants removed or lawns cut. But then the ground work can start:

You should start with a soil analysis. Experienced gardeners and professionals can draw conclusions about the properties of the soil by examining the soil and estimate how nutrient-rich a soil is by describing the previous land use and maintenance. However, a laboratory analysis of your soil is always worthwhile before new planting. Because:
In the ideal case, it is not the soil that is adapted to the plants, but rather the planting that is adapted to the soil. If you know the properties of the soil, you can modulate them in a targeted way - more below.

Then all weeds - especially the stubborn root weeds - are completely removed. The respective material is then distributed to improve the soil and dug or milled in to the depth of a spade.

Did your soil analysis show a very low pH value and you don't want to create a bog bed? Lime is then applied first to increase the pH value a little.

In general, high-quality potting soil such as our Plantura organic potting soil, horse manure or compost enhances all types of soil. Above all, extremely sandy or heavy, clayey soils benefit from the introduction of this organic material.

Light, sandy soils are also greatly enhanced with clay minerals such as bentonite. Heavy, clayey soils, on the other hand, are additionally mixed with sand to ensure better water drainage. Don't be stingy with extreme soils - adding only small amounts of these materials will have almost no effect.

Last but not least, a strong basic fertilization with a long-term effect should not be missing: it provides nutrients over a long period of time. Anyone who relies on primarily organic fertilizers such as our Plantura organic flower fertilizer promotes soil life and thus a fertile subsoil in which the perennials can root deeply and are perfectly supplied with nutrients.

Summary: How to create a new perennial bed

• Prepare the area: remove old plants, clear grass or create a border.
• Perform soil analysis.
• Depending on the desired planting, theCustomize ground properties.
• Lime to raise the pH, or spread acidic bedrock powder (granite, bas alt) to lower it.
• Improve poor soils with plenty of potting soil, horse manure or compost: Useful on soils that are too light or too heavy.
• Improve heavy clay soils with plenty of sand.
• Improve light sandy soils with clay minerals (sand soil improver).
• Perform basic fertilization with a primarily organic long-term fertilizer such as our Plantura organic flower fertilizer.

Tip: Where can you get high-quality perennials?

If you're shopping for a new perennial border, going to the garden center should only be a stopgap solution. It is better to plan in advance which plants and quantities you need and then buy specifically. You can obtain the plants from a regional perennial nursery or online mail order. In any case, we recommend that you stick to the pages of professional perennial nurseries. So you can be sure that you will receive high-quality, he althy and hardy plants. You can also find information on the websites of good perennial nurseries, for example, on whether the perennials should be planted individually or in groups and how hardy they are.

Creating a perennial border: Our tips

An interesting, lush, richly flowering and also weed-free perennial bed can be achieved by combining 4 to 5 different plant types that complement each other. These plant types are:

1. Lead perennials or scaffolding plants that stand individually (solitaire) and structure the bed. They are particularly tall or large and attract attention.
2. Accompanying perennials, which bloom when the main perennials are no longer blooming, thus providing variety in the bed. They are often medium tall so as not to compete with trellis perennials.
3. Fill plants, which are only relevant in the initial phase of a perennial bed. They self-seed and keep the soil covered so weeds don't take hold.
4. Ground cover perennials growing low and spreading to cover long term space between the larger trellis and companion perennials. They permanently suppress weeds.
5. Optional: Flower bulbs and tubers, which can be used to add a little pop of color to the border in spring or autumn.

In the suggestions below for planting in sunny and dry, partially shaded or shaded areas, the plants arestructured according to this pattern. Plants of at least the first 4 types should be used to create a lush perennial border.

You will also find information about the proportion of this plant type in the total area. In this way, you avoid beds that require intensive care and are, for example, completely overcrowded or heavily overgrown with weeds.

Important: When making your selection and purchase, pay attention to how many of the plants are to be planted per square meter - this is how the plant comes into its own and weed growth is also prevented better held back.

Tip: You will find a selection of particularly bee-friendly ground covers with which you can supplement your planting in our special article.

Plant plan for a border of perennials in a sunny and dry location

Your soil analysis showed that your soil is rather sandy and the location is sunny? Instead of completely turning the soil upside down, you should plant perennials that are adapted to these conditions. Bring only a little potting soil or compost and limit yourself to some clay mineral and fertilizer. In the following you will find suitable perennials for the sunny and dry position as well as the proportion they should have in the area.

1. 10% of all plants: scaffold perennials
   • Golden Sheaf (Achillea filipendulina)
   • Atlas fescue (Festuca mairei)
   • Blue Rhombus (Perovskia abrotanoides)
   • Sageweed (Phlomis russeliana)
   • Teller Sedum (Sedum telephium)
   • Dry Grass (Stipa calamagrostis)
   • Silk-Haired Mullein (Verbascum bombyciferum)
2. 30% of all plants: companion perennials
   • Pearl Basket (Anaphalis triplinervis)
   • Mountain Aster (Aster amellus)
   • Golden Aster (Aster linosyris)
   • Golden Spurge (Euphorbia polychroma)
   • Prairie Candle (Gaura lindheimeri)
   • Red scabious (Knautia macedonica)
   • Great Speedwell (Veronica teucrium)
3. 10% of all plants: filler plants
   • Rattle Flower (Catananche caerulea)
   • Yellow Scabiosa (Scabiosa ochroleuca)
   • (White) Carnation (Lychnis coronaria ('Alba'))
4. 50% of all plants: groundcover perennials
   • Caucasian cranesbillor blood cranesbill (Geranium renardii, Geranium sanguineum)
   • Grow Anemone (Anemone sylvestris)
   • Lesser Hawkweed (Hieracium pilosella)
   • Bermint (Calamintha nepeta sbsp. nepeta)
5. Optional: flower bulbs and tubers
   • Ornamental Allium (Allium nigrum)
   • Elf Crocus (Crocus tommasinianus)
   • Grape hyacinth (Muscari latifolium)
   • Botanical Tulip (Tulipa praestans)

Plant plan for a semi-shaded perennial bed

The location of your future perennial border is partially shaded? After you've grabbed a spade and improved the soil with good potting soil or compost and some bulk fertilizer like our Plantura organic flower fertilizer, we recommend you choose from the following plants. They like to settle in the penumbra and grow particularly well there.

1. 10% of all plants: scaffold perennials
   • Bellous Hosta (Hosta ventricosa)
   • Record sheet (Rodgersia species)
   • Diamond Reedgrass (Calamagrostis brachytricha)
   • Solomon's mirror (Polygonatum species)
   • Foxglove (Digitalis grandiflora)
   • Spiritgrass (Chasmantium latifolium)
2. 30% of all plants: companion perennials
   • Purple Bells (Heuchera villosa var. macrorrhiza)
   • White Forest Aster (Aster divaricatus)
   • Aster (Kalimeris incisa)
   • Palm Leaf Hellebore (Helleborus foetidus)
   • Lenten Rose (Helleborus x hybridus)
   • Candleweed (Persicaria amplexicaulis)
3. 10% of all plants: filler plants
   • Yellow Corydalis (Pseudofumaria lutea)
   • Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata)
   • Broad-leaved Forest Bellflower (Campanula latifolia var. macrantha)
4. 50% of all plants: groundcover perennials
   • Elvenflower (Epimedium x rubrum or Epimedium x versicolor)
   • Wild Strawberry (Waldsteinia geoides, Waldsteinia ternata)
   • Woodruff (Gallium odoratum)
   • Wood grove (Lutzula sylvatica)
   • False mandrake root(Tellima grandiflora)
5. Optional: flower bulbs and tubers
   • Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica)
   • Cyclamen Daffodil (Narcissus cyclamineus)
   • Lilies (Lilium, e.g. variety 'Claude Shride' or 'Hyawatha')
   • Angel Tears Daffodil (Narcissus triandrus)
   • Leek (Allium stipitatum)

Plant plan for a perennial bed in the shade

Even the deeper shade is more than suitable for creating a magnificent border of perennials. Here you will find special specialists that not every neighbor has already planted in their front yard. Shade is often found under taller trees or in strips of trees and thus often brings another component: the so-called root pressure, i.e. the competition of several plants in a confined space. We have selected perennials for you that will still thrive under these doubly difficult conditions.

1. 10% of all plants: scaffold perennials
   • Giant Sedge (Carex pendula)
   • Bell Funkie (Hosta ventricosa)
   • Thorny Shield Fern (Polystichum aculeatum)
   • Summer Silver Cohosh (Cimicifuga rubifolia)
   • Diamond Reedgrass (Calamagrostis brachytricha)
   • Moisturea (Molinia caerulea)
2. 30% of all plants: companion perennials
   • White Forest Aster (Aster divaricatus)
   • Aster (Kalimeris incisa)
   • Lentenrose (Helleborus x hybridus)
   • Candleweed (Persicaria amplexicaulis)
   • Italian Arum (Arum italicum)
   • Bergenia species (Bergenia sp.)
   • Caucasian Forget-Me-Not (Brunnera macrophylla)
   • Carex species (Carex sp.)
   • Clump-forming Liriope (Liriope muscari)
   • Peacock Fern (Adiantum pedatum)
3. 10% of all plants: filler plants
   • Almond Leaf Spurge (Euphorbia amygdaloides)
   • Violet (Viola riviniana)
   • Columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris , also. var. stellata)
   • Yellow Corydalis (Pseudofumaria lutea)
4. 50% of all plants:Groundcover Perennials
   • Purple Bells (Heuchera sp.)
   • Goldberry (Waldsteinia geoides, W. ternata)
   • Elven Flower (Epimedium sp.)
   • Small Periwinkle (Vinca minor)
   • Redrush (Luzula pilosa, L. sylvatica )
   • Hazelroot (Asarum europaeum)
   • Japan Sedge (Carex oshimensis)
   • Mushroom Sedge (Carex caryophyllea)
5. Optional: flower bulbs and tubers
   • Shining prairie (Camassia leichtlinii ssp. susdorfii)
   • Trigrinum Lily (Lilium 'Claude Shride')
   • Cycloam Daffodil (Narcissus cyclamineus)
   • Balkan Anemone(Anemone blanda)
   • Spanish Bluebell (Hyacinthoides hispanica)
   • Dog Tooth (Erythronium 'Pagoda')
   • Elf Crocus (Crocus tommasinianus)
   • Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis)
   • Small Crocus (Crocus chrysanthus)

Expert tip: Arrange and plant perennials correctly

Before planting, it makes sense to display the perennials in their pots on the prepared bed. Arrange the plants as you wish: the main perennials are planted individually or in small groups of three, and the accompanying perennials are usually placed starting from them. Here you can be completely free and creative. The groundcover shrubs are placed between the main and companion shrubs and, last but not least, filling plants and bulbs are distributed in small tuffs. If everything is positioned according to your wishes and at the right distance, you can also see whether there are any plants missing. Now the perennials are potted and planted and of course watered extensively with the garden hose.

Mulching perennial beds: advantages and correct procedure

Mulching freshly laid perennial beds has a number of advantages. The mulch material protects the soil from drying out, insulates the plants against intense heat and cold, slowly provides organic material for the formation of humus in the soil, which keeps it loose and: mulch suppresses unwanted weed growth quite effectively. In the video you will learn how to mulch your perennial bedthe right way.

It is important to know how much mulch is needed: The layer should be at least 5 cm thick, so about 30 - 40 liters of mulch are needed for one square meter perennial bed, because the perennials occupy part of the area . It is also very important to carry out the so-called compensation fertilization before mulching, i.e. to distribute a thin layer of nitrogen-rich fertilizer under the mulch material.

Because young perennials are often short and have often shed their leaves, especially in autumn when they are planted, mulching is a little more complicated than, for example, with trees and shrubs. To avoid completely burying your perennials under mulch, do the following:

1. Place all perennials with pots on the surface as they will be arranged later.
2. Plant the perennials leaving the root ball slightly above the ground - the soil level will still rise with the mulch.
3. Place each small perennial planted with its pot upside down on top.
4. Distribute a nitrogen-rich fertilizer such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer as a balancing fertiliser.
5. Now mulch the entire bed, taking care not to knock over the inverted pots.
6. Collect the inverted pots from the entire area - the perennials will now only be slightly covered by the mulch falling into the hole, but not completely buried.

Suitable mulch materials can be bark mulch, wood chips, leaves, lawn clippings or even stable bedding such as straw, chopped straw or chopped hemp. Pine bark is very durable and decorative, it decomposes only slowly, so that it is often not necessary to mulch again until the area is completely overgrown with plants.

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Once the perennial bed has been created and developed into a multi-layered sea of leaves, the maintenance effort for such an area is very low. However, it makes sense to occasionally provide a supply of nutrients by fertilizing the perennials in order to support the dense and weed-suppressing growth of the plants.