Their flowers can be the size of a plate and are not only an eye-catcher in a pot, but also in a bouquet or as a dried flower. We are talking about the Protea.
Various species of the genus Sugarbush (Protea) can be grown as pot plants indoors and in the garden in a mild climate. You can find out here which location is suitable and how to take care of it properly.
Protea: Origin and Properties
The sugar bushes (Protea) form a genus of plants that includes about 100 species. The evergreen shrubs native to southern and tropical Africa belong to the silver tree family (Proteaceae). Other names for the Protea are Federbush, Silberbaum or Kaprose. Sugar bushes naturally occur mainly in higher mountainous areas. Some species form a thickening, the lignotuber, at the base of the trunk, which serves as fire protection, so to speak. After a fire, the sugar bushes can sprout again. The seeds are also in very hard shells, which only break open after a fire, which means that germination only takes place after a fire.
The sugar bush inflorescences, which consist of a number of small individual flowers and are often very large, are characteristic decorative, colored bracts, the bracts. Due to the bracts that surround the inflorescence, the flower looks a bit like an artichoke. The flowers can have a diameter of up to 30 cm.
The leaves are leathery and entire and, depending on the species, are distributed along the shoot or only found at the upper end. The varieties differ greatly in growth height, which ranges from 1 to 10 m.
Some Protea species can also be kept as pot plants in our country. The Protea is also popular when dried as a decoration in a vase. A particularly magnificent species is the king Protea (Protea cynaroides), which we often use as an ornamental plant.
Is Protea poisonous? Yes, Protea is poisonous and should not be eaten. When eaten, it canirritation of the mucous membranes.
The most beautiful Protea species and varieties
The best-known Protea species, which are also suitable for growing in pots indoors and on the balcony, are available in different varieties with differently colored bracts.
King Protea (Protea cynaroides): Forms cream-white or pink flowers up to 20 cm in diameter. It is a particularly magnificent species, with varieties available in different colours.
- 'White Crown': With white-soft green bracts
- 'Little Prince': With red bracts
- 'Mini King': A short cultivar reaching heights of 60 - 90 cm
Oleander-leaved Protea (Protea neriifolia): The bracts of this species are purple and hairy at the tip. The bracts are bent together at the top, so that one can only guess at the flower. But that doesn't matter, because it's usually the colorful bracts that are so striking on the sugar bush.
- ‘Pink Ice’: With pink bracts
- ‘Alba’: Here the bracts are whitish-light green
- 'Australis Ruby': Reddish-pink bracts that lighten towards the top
Plant Protea
In our latitudes, the Protea is usually kept in pots or tubs and only spends the summer outdoors. In winter it is placed in a sheltered place because it does not tolerate the low temperatures. Only in very mild regions, for example in wine-growing areas, can the Protea also be planted in the bed. Minimum temperatures of about - 7 °C are still tolerated. If you want to plant a Protea, you first need a suitable substrate. This is not easy to buy, because the natural habitat of the Protea is very special. So make the substrate yourself: it should be low in nutrients, permeable and slightly acidic. Sugar bushes require a soil pH of four to six. For permeability, a nutrient-poor, phosphate-poor soil should be mixed with a third of sand. A mixture of two parts sand, two parts softwood soil and one part perlite is ideal. In addition, a drainage layer, for example made of expanded clay or potsherds, on the bottom of the pot is important, so that the irrigation watercan expire. The Protea does not tolerate waterlogging at all. In order to keep the soil constantly moist but to counteract waterlogging, a layer of mulch, for example from our Plantura organic pine bark, can also be applied. Not only does it look beautiful, it also has a slightly acidic effect on the soil, reduces water evaporation from the soil and prevents unwanted weeds from sprouting. It also has an insulating effect, so that the root of the Protea is not exposed to sudden temperature changes.
An ideal location for the Protea is bright, warm and characterized by noticeable air movement. It can also be sunny - but stagnant air should be avoided, as this promotes the occurrence of plant diseases on the Protea .
Tip: Since the Protea unlike other plants cannot control the uptake of phosphorus, it quickly occurs in phosphorus-containing substrates Phosphorus poisoning because the plant has taken up too much of the nutrient element. This initially manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves, later also in leaf tips and whole leaves drying up or in a shortening of the internodes, i.e. the distance between the leaves on the shoot.
The right care
So that the sugar bush develops well and stays he althy, a little sensitivity is required when caring for the Protea. It is important to place the Protea in cooler regions in a bright, frost-free place at around 10 °C from the end of October. A conservatory, for example, is suitable for this. From the beginning of April she will be allowed outside again.
When watering the Protea, make sure that the roots do not dry out completely, but that the plant is never wet. The goal is a very low but constant moisture level in the soil. Rainwater is suitable as irrigation water because it is naturally slightly acidic. Hard water should be boiled or mixed with distilled water. From time to time the sugar bush or its mineral mulch should also be sprayed with lime-free water, because some species do not tolerate very dry air well.
The nutrient requirement of the sugar bush is rather low according to its natural habitat. It therefore does not have to be fertilized at all. In the vegetation period from April to September, however, occasional fertilizers lead to richer flowering. In the first year after planting, a little slow-release fertilizer, such asfor example our Plantura organic flower fertilizer, can be incorporated into the upper layer of the substrate. This contains phosphorus in a slowly available form, namely as rock phosphate. This can prevent the plant from absorbing too much phosphorus at once. However, the fertilizer should only be used in half the dosage for flower boxes so that too much phosphorus is not added. The other nutrients it contains ensure a he althy plant with magnificent flowers.
The Protea can tolerate a maximum of 40 mg of elemental phosphorus per kilogram of root-penetrated soil. This should be considered when choosing the fertilizer.
After flowering, dried out Protea flowers can be cut off, because removing the flowers improves further flowering.
Is the Protea hardy? The Protea is not hardy because the winters in our latitudes are too cold for the plant in the southern hemisphere . In mild regions, where it does not get colder than -7 °C, the Protea can stay outside in winter, but should be protected by a layer of mulch to be on the safe side. In cooler regions it should be wintered cool, at about 10 °C, in a bright place, for example in the conservatory.
Propagation via cuttings and seeds
Growing the sugar bush isn't easy. In principle, propagation is possible both by seed and by cuttings.
Since the Protea as indoor plants does not usually produce fruit due to a lack of pollinators, the seed is purchased from specialist shops. The Protea seeds are sown in spring at a temperature of 10 to 15 °C. The temperature differences between day and night are important for germination, so sowing must be done outdoors. Before sowing, the seeds must be soaked in room-warm water for about 24 hours. The effect of pre-soaking is enhanced by adding about three teaspoons of wood ash per 100 ml of water. Alternatively, place the seeds on a fireproof tray, cover them with 6 to 10 cm of dried fern leaves and burn them. The ashes are then moistened. Then the seeds are placed in slightly acidic, permeable and phosphate-free potting soil. A suitable mixture can be achieved, for example, with two parts sand, two parts softwood soil and one part perlite. The seeds are only distributed on the ground and very lightly sieved, because they are light germs. ThatSubstrate is kept moist, but never wet. Germination occurs after four weeks to four months.
In order to propagate the Protea via cuttings, you first need a he althy mother plant and a suitable growing substrate. The substrate is obtained, for example, from a mixture of two parts quartz sand and one part sphagnum moss. Using a sharp, clean knife, cut off a shoot about 5 to 10 cm long from the mother plant at an angle. It shouldn't be lignified yet, but it shouldn't be green either. The leaves on the lower part of the cutting are removed and the cutting point is dipped in rooting powder. Now the cutting can be inserted into the substrate, which is then moistened well. It should be placed in a warm, bright place. High humidity is also necessary and can be achieved by occasional spraying. In good conditions, roots will form after about four weeks.
Protea as a cut flower in a bouquet
The Protea is a flower that is one of the most durable plants when cut in a bouquet. You cut them off at the desired point with a sharp knife and put them in a vase with water. This should be replaced every few days. This way the sugar bush will keep in the vase for up to three weeks.
Drying and Preserving Protea
In order to enjoy the beautiful flowers of the Protea for a long time and without much effort, you can dry them. To do this, cut off the flower including the stalk at the bottom and hang it upside down, tied to a string, for example. So you leave them hanging in a warm, air-dry room. When the Protea has dried, you can put them in an empty vase individually or together with other dried flowers.
If keeping the Protea is too time-consuming, you can look around for easy-care houseplants. The Alocasia zebrina, for example, is a convincing houseplant with fewer flowers and more decorative leaves.