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Apples are among the most popular types of fruit in the world - ideal if you grow them in your own garden. We give important tips about the apple tree.

The apple tree is a popular resident of our gardens

Apples (Malus) are a fruit tree genus of immense importance. There is no fruit with a greater variety of varieties. Every spring, the apple trees can be recognized by their white to pink-red blossoms before they deliver the popular fruit in autumn. Ideally, you can harvest fresh apples from your own garden. Plantura summarizes what you absolutely need to know about the apple.

Apple tree: A short profile

The widespread cultivated apple (Malus domestica) belongs to the rose family (Rosacea). Due to its popularity, which results from the variety, good storage properties and versatile uses, apples are one of the economically most important types of fruit. However, apple trees are not only grown for their fruit. Some species are only used as ornamental plants, they do not bear tasty fruit, but are an eye-catcher in the garden due to their beautiful flowers and the much smaller but still very ornamental fruits.

The delicious apples can then be harvested in autumn

The flowers of the apple tree are white or slightly pink and fragrant. Our apple tree blooms from the end of April. From the flower axis - a connection between the stalk and the actual flower organs - the apples develop as fruits. After fertilization by pollen, the carpels fuse together and the fruit develops. The carpels can then only be recognized in the fruit as the core housing, in which the apple seeds are located. In order for the trees to bear fruit, they need more than 900 hours a year below 7 °C. This internal clock is intended to minimize the risk of the apple tree being hit by late frost damage in spring. Once the threshold of this time has been reached, the apple tree has the full ability to blossom with rising temperatures. This mechanism is called vernalization. In large parts of the world, these demands on the climate are met, hence the wide distribution and popularity. The leaves of the tree are oval, round or elliptical andhave a sawn edge. The trees can bear fruit for up to 50 years. However, it can take up to seven years before the first harvest. Also, the apple tree needs a pollinator variety, if there is no other apple variety nearby, the tree will not bear any apples.

The blossoms of the apple tree are white or slightly pink

There are standard, half-stem and columnar apple trees. The different variations and growth forms are diverse and are suitable for meadow orchards, the home garden or small garden.

Apple tree blossom: When is blossoming time?

The flowering season of the apple tree begins at the end of April. Because the trees flower in early spring, when leaf budding is just beginning, they can be seen well into May. Thus, the apple blossom falls at a critical time when the entire harvest can be ruined. Severe late frosts can still occur in spring to mid-May. If the apple trees are caught unprotected in their blossom, in the worst case they can freeze to death completely. On cold nights when the apple blossoms, fruit growers try to avert crop failures due to frost damage with various methods: They sprinkle their plantations with water, because when the water freezes directly on the blossom, energy is released in the form of heat (so-called anti-freeze sprinkling), or they ignite in a controlled manner Bonfires that pleasantly heat their trees.

Due to their popularity and the fact that they are widespread in many gardens and meadows, apple trees are also an important factor for beekeepers. Your bees can feed on the nectar of the flowers in spring. They also help pollinate the flowers.

Bees feed on the nectar of the flowers and thus contribute to pollination

You can find more interesting information about the apple tree blossom here in the special article.

Apple varieties: ripening time and taste

When choosing the right apple variety for your garden, consider your own needs and desires for the fruit. Many varieties available on the market require a lot of care and are not very suitable for private cultivation. But there are some more robust varieties that come relatively close to them in terms of taste.

When choosing a suitable apple variety, you have to consider a number of things:

  • How resistant is the variety to certain pathogens and/or pests?
  • How maintenance-intensive is the variety?
  • Which growth form is suitable for the location? Is there room for a sprawling standard or just oneColumn shape?
  • What taste should the apple have - sweet as sugar or sour?
  • When should the apple be harvested and should it be storable? A distinction is made between ripeness for consumption and ripeness for picking, as well as early and late ripening varieties. Apples that are ripe for picking develop their flavor only after they have been stored for a few weeks, while varieties that are ripe for consumption can be eaten straight from the tree.
There are many things to consider when choosing a specific apple variety

Early varieties

Early apple varieties reach their final stage for consumption as early as August. Most early-ripening apple varieties are ready to eat right away and are less suitable for storage.

  • 'Discovery': Small to medium-sized fruits with a pleasant acidity
The early variety “Discovery”
  • 'Nela': scab-resistant variety with bright red, medium-sized fruit; finely sour aroma, similar to 'Gala'
  • 'Gravensteiner': Large apples with an aromatic taste
  • 'Retina': Hardy variety with sweet and sour aroma (scab resistant)
  • 'Elstar': Medium-sized yellow-red fruits with an intensely spicy aroma

Autumn Varieties

While early varieties are already ripe in August, autumn varieties do not reach this stage until September to October. Nevertheless, most autumn varieties are ready to eat immediately and can be stored until around Christmas.

  • 'Red Alcmene': Small to medium-sized fruits; sweet fruity and aromatic, similar to 'Cox Orange'
The autumn variety “Red Alkemene”
  • 'Santana': scab resistant; particularly robust variety with a sweet taste, similar to 'Elstar'
  • 'Red Star Reinette': Small, flat-topped fruits with a bright red skin; sweet-sour taste
  • 'Goldparmane': Small to medium-sized fruits; sweet aroma
  • 'Gerlinde': Small fruits with a sweet, slightly sour taste
  • 'Rebella': Frost hardy; resistant to apple scab, powdery mildew, fire blight

Winter Apples

All apple varieties that ripen after October are winter apples. Due to the risk of frost damage, they should be harvested ripe for picking, which entails storing them for a few weeks before they can be enjoyed. On the other hand, most winter apples store well in comparison.

  • 'Red Berlepsch': Small to medium-sized fruits with a delicate aroma, similar to 'Braeburn', 'Fuji'
  • 'Red Boskoop': medium-sized to large fruits with a sour-tart aroma
The winter variety “Red Boskoop”
  • 'Topaz': scab resistant; medium-sized fruit with balanced acidity, similar to 'Pink Lady'
  • 'Winterbanana': medium-sized, flattened fruits; particularly sweet and aromatic, similar to 'Jonagold'
  • 'Rewena': Medium-sized, tall fruits with a tart and sour aroma (resistant to apple scab, powdery mildew, fire blight)
  • 'Florina': Small to medium-sized, dark red colored fruit with a slightly sweet aroma (scab resistant)
  • 'Golden Delicious': medium-sized, yellow fruits; very sweet and juicy

Traditional and well-established apple varieties

The apple is one of the oldest cultivated varieties. Some of the old varieties have stood the test of time and are still very popular today. They are high in vitamin C and often resistant to rust and mildew. With the old varieties, you should use regional varieties. In terms of taste, they are unbeatable. Older varieties include:

  • 'Boskoop': winter apple, which is also ideal as a baked apple due to its cinnamon-fresh aroma
The “Boskoop” apple is a traditional variety
  • 'Roter Gravensteiner': Autumn apple from the 17th century with an intensely sweet and sour aroma; Disadvantage is its sensitivity to pressure
  • 'Goldparmäne': Over 500 year old variety with red-golden yellow fruits; nutty taste; however susceptible to the dreaded fire blight
  • 'Kaiser Wilhelm': Named after the last German Emperor; large-fruited winter apple variety, which is well suited for juice production from orchards due to the juicy pulp

You can find a detailed list of different apple varieties here, with something for everyone's taste.

Apple tree as standard

The high stem is a refined stem form. Grafting takes place at a height of about 1.8 m, the base then forms the trunk. The comparatively high stem height of around 1.8 m requires more effort when picking the apples. So that the expansive crown can unfold, standard trees require more space. Standard trees are therefore less popular in private gardens. But they also have some advantages: the large crown and thus the higher yield compared to other growth forms speak in favor of the standard tree. The elevated crown is particularly suitable for cultivation in cultivated meadows and fields. However, the exposed position of the crown makes it difficult to harvest the apples. If it is not possible to get the apples from the tree with a ladder, you canalso just shake off. The fallen fruit is then less suitable for storage, but all the better for extracting juice and must.

An apple tree as a standard has a trunk height of about 1.8 m

Apple tree as half trunk

The half-stem is popular for home gardens and small gardens. The grafting point for half-stems is significantly lower than for high-stems. A half trunk is only grafted at a height of about 0.8 to 1.2 m. This makes harvesting the apples much easier compared to the standard tree. The half-stem, which stays smaller, also forms a luxuriant crown and can reach a height of 4 to a maximum of 6 m. For this reason, the half-stem should also be allowed sufficient space of about 6 to 7 m all around.

Columnar Apple Tree

The columnar form of the apple tree is the smallest growth form. The columnar form is a slow-growing tree without a defined trunk. They can also be planted next to each other at a small distance of about 0.5 m. For example, you can plant them in rows to create a privacy screen that also produces delicious fruit. This growth form is also suitable for the balcony or terrace, all you need is a suitable bucket. Regular pruning care is required to maintain the columnar shape.

Apple tree as espalier

Half trunks are best suited for forming trellises. Although it is possible to train standard trees to form a trellis, they will of course be tall and require more space. In addition, the training measures that are necessary to train a trellis quickly become tedious at the height of the standard tree. An apple trellis must be brought into shape and kept by regular, targeted cutting. Individual branches have to be straightened and tied in a targeted horizontal manner - cultivating an apple tree as a trellis is something for real professionals.

An apple trellis must be shaped by cutting

Propagate apple trees: cuttings, planters and co.

Grafting isn't the only way to propagate an apple tree. Of course, you can also multiply them, for example, using cuttings and sinkers - in many cases even true to the variety.

Sow the apple tree: the variety is not preserved

You can easily use the core of an apple to sow an apple tree. However, you need a lot of patience until the first harvest. This will not happen until many years later. You should be aware that you cannot be sure about thiswhat kind it is. Apple trees always need a pollinator variety since they are self-sterile. Genetic information from the pollinator variety, which you draw from your own seeds, always gets into the next generation of apples.

Propagate apple tree vegetatively

When propagating apple trees, a distinction is made between generative and vegetative propagation: Sowing counts as part of generative propagation. In vegetative propagation, a genetic image of the mother plant with the same characteristics is created. There are different methods of vegetative propagation:

  • Propagate apple tree by cuttings
    • Main vegetative propagation method
    • Cut cuttings from young, green shoots
    • After the new shoots, when the shoots are still fresh and as unwoody as possible
    • Possible, but not economically relevant
  • Propagate the apple tree by cutting
    • Cover a shoot close to the ground with soil at one point
    • There forms a new root
    • Genetically identical plant is created
    • Optimal for half-stems because it is close to the ground
    • Possible, but not economically relevant

Vegetative propagation plays no role in apple cultivation. Here you resort to grafting the trees.

Graining Apple Trees: Instructions for Grafting

The tree is grafted for true-variety propagation of an apple tree. It is the simplest form and produces much faster yields compared to the other forms of propagation. There are different methods of refinement. What they all have in common, however, is that the special properties of a certain variety - the noble variety - should be preserved. With apples, this would not be possible via seed propagation due to cross-pollination. When grafting, small parts, such as individual buds or parts of shoots, are usually taken from the noble variety and connected to an already more developed plant - the so-called rootstock. Essentially, four different grafting techniques are used for the apple tree. These differ in the time at which they are carried out: some during the rest period in winter, others in summer.

In order to get a certain type of apple, you have to refine it

Grooves in Dormant Period: Winter Grafts

The scions of the variety to be propagated are harvested in December or January. Winter grafts can already then even under frosty temperaturesbe made, but a heated or at least frost-free greenhouse should be available for this. Alternatively, the scions can be stored first. However, the grafting should be carried out by the end of March to the beginning of April at the latest, so that scion and rootstock can grow together to some extent before the large budding. In general, the sooner the scions are grafted after cutting, the better it is.

  • Copulation
Knots must fit together perfectly
  • Scion and rootstock have the same diameter.
  • Copulation cut: Oblique cut on scion and rootstock. Caution: The base and scion should fit together perfectly after cutting. Note that the scion is cut from the correct side.
  • Join: Both parts are placed on top of each other and fixed with raffia and coated with wax or tree wound closure at the interface.
  • Goatfoot method
    • Root is about twice as thick in diameter as scion.
    • Cut: Two diagonal cuts from top to bottom so that a 3 - 4 cm long wedge (buck's foot) is cut out. Shape the scion into a corresponding counter wedge with two diagonal cuts.
    • Joining: There should be as little space as possible when joining scion and base; Secure the connection point with raffia and coat with wax or tree wound closure.
    • On the right you can see a classic foot of the goat, on the left the flattening
  • plug
    • Root is significantly larger in diameter than scion
    • Split plug: A vertical slit is cut centrally in the base, the scion is sharpened so that it fits into the slit in the base.
    • Assemble: Significantly thinner scion is inserted into the grafting slot of the base, tied with raffia and coated with wax or tree miracle lock.

    • Growing Grafting: Summer Grafting

    The summer grafts are much more filigree: In order to place the noble variety on the rootstock and thus propagate, the bark of the rootstock has to loosen and the counterpart of the noble variety is pushed sensitively under the bark. However, as the bark only detaches particularly well in the months of July and August, summer is the time for these grafts.

    • Oculation
    Oculation
    During budding, the bark of the tree must come off, so it is best at the end of July toApply at the end of August
    • Precious eye instead of scion: The scion - i.e. a single vegetation bud - is removed from the scion. It is best to use a special oculation knife for this.
    • T-cut in the grafting pad: Clean the area beforehand with a cloth, then cut once across and then vertically downwards so that the bark comes off. Remove the woody parts, exposing the cambium.
    • Inserting the eye: It is best to hold the precious eye with the back of a knife so as not to contaminate it. Using a knife, carefully lift the bark under the T-cut and insert the eye. The noble eye should be in the middle. Secure the spot with raffia − but the eye must remain free.
  • Bark Plug
    • Special form of grafting.
    • Good for connecting very thin scion with a very thick base.
    • Cut the base down to the desired thickness and loosen the bark at one point with a vertical downward cut. The bark is then carefully lifted, but not completely unfolded.
    • In the corresponding length of the cut on the base, cut the scion flat. Push the cut scion behind the bark and fix the connection point with raffia.

    • You can find more information about grafting apple trees here.

    Apple Tree Fertilization: This is how fruits start

    Apple varieties are self-sterile. You need a second variety of apple for pollination. The so-called pollinator variety. Some varieties have very specific requirements. There must be a suitable pollinator variety close to the apple tree so that it can bear fruit. As a rule, it is sufficient if the pollinator variety is in the neighboring garden.

    Overview of varieties with associated pollinators

    Buying an apple tree: what to look out for when buying

    You should think twice before buying an apple tree. Consider that an apple tree normally needs a lot of space or reach for slow-growing specimens - see the rootstock for this. Choose a variety that suits your taste. When you buy it, remember that the apple tree needs a pollinator variety. Before buying, you should carefully examine the chosen plant. The goods should:

    • a straight stem,
    • well-branched crown with at least three long side branches,
    • no bark injuries,
    • no symptoms of illness
    • no dead shoot tips
    • and have intact grafts.
    What is important when buying is which criteria the apple tree should meet

    Planting an apple tree: procedure in 7 steps

    The better the soil, the better the tree grows. The best way to plant the trees is as follows:

    1. Soak the root ball in water for a few hours before planting.
    2. Dig the planting hole: With a spade about 0.5 meters deep and twice the width of the root ball.
    3. Loosen the bottom of the planting hole and lay out a layer of compost; Root growth will be inhibited if they encounter too dense substrate.
    4. Put the apple tree vertically in the planting hole; the grafting point must be at least 10 cm above the ground.
    5. Fill the planting hole: The excavated earth mixed with compost is suitable for this. Cavities should be avoided.
    6. Press the soil down and create the pouring rim: You should not solidify the soil too much.
    7. Water and mulch: A good supply of water and nutrients is important for successful cultivation.

    A tree stake is suitable for long-term stabilization and stability. You can attach the tree to the post with a coco cord.

    You can find detailed instructions on how to plant your apple tree here.

    Water and fertilize apple trees properly

    After planting, you should water your apple tree regularly and sufficiently - even a year after planting, because younger trees in particular need additional watering if the drought lasts for a long time. Older apple trees usually do not need additional watering.

    By enriching the potting soil with compost, you do without further fertilization when planting the apple trees. The best time to fertilize is in spring, March or April with a suitable fruit plant fertilizer.

    Especially in the first year, a good water supply for the apple tree is important

    You can find more information about fertilizing apple trees here.

    Pruning an apple tree: the fine art of pruning an apple tree

    The crowns of the apple trees grow very dense. They have to be thinned out regularly, this is the only way to build a stable supporting structure and ensure a high yield. Find out below what you need to consider when pruning apple trees.

    When to prune the apple tree?

    The perfect time to prune an apple tree is either in winter (Decemberuntil March) or in summer. If the tree is to be stimulated in growth and branching by the cut, winter pruning is particularly suitable. This is an impulse for the new shoots of many buds in spring, from which new shoots develop.

    The summer pruning, on the other hand, serves to slow down the growth of the tree and significantly thin out the crown. With the yielding leaf mass, the tree is robbed of energy, so to speak, and next year's budding will be much more restrained.

    Regardless of the time of the apple tree pruning, you should make sure that your protégé is only pruned in dry weather. This way you can minimize the risk of fungal infections.

    Apple trees should be pruned in winter or summer

    How to prune the apple tree?

    The following generally applies when pruning fruit trees: severe pruning causes wood growth, strong new growth and crown development. A gentle pruning causes the crown to be compacted and more fruit wood. When cutting, do not leave cut surfaces in a horizontal orientation. Water can collect there in winter and cause the outer layer of the apple tree to burst. The cracks in bark and wood are a popular entry point for fungi and other harmful pathogens.

    Depending on the development stage of the tree, different goals can be achieved by pruning.

    • Plant cutting
      • Shorten the treetop by one or two thirds
      • Leave three to four evenly distributed leaders on the main shoot
      • For autumn planting, wait until early spring to cut the plants
      • Cut spring plantings immediately
    • education cut
      • Goal: Shape the crown according to the function of the tree, avoid undesirable developments
      • Promotes yield and vitality and stability in young apple trees
      • Targeted cut in winter, summer and autumn
      • Remove branches with small angles to branches
      • Leave branches with stable bearing capacity for fruit
    • Conservation cut
      • Goal: Preserve the crown framework
      • Promotes yield and vitality and stability in older apple trees
      • Remove Water Shoots
      • Pruning back older fruiting wood with many branches

    Click here for more information on pruning apple trees.

    Harvest and store apple tree

    If you harvest the apples with enough care, the apples are suitableexcellent for storage and, depending on the variety, can still be enjoyed weeks to months after harvest. Another way to preserve the apples is to process them − for example to make apple juice.

    The apples must not have bruises during storage

    Harvest apple tree: When is harvest time?

    The harvest time of the apples varies depending on the variety. Early varieties can be harvested as early as August, late ones until October. The apples do not ripen evenly across the tree. Tilt the apple slightly or turn it, it can be easily removed, it is ripe.

    Storing Apples: Extending Shelf Life

    Apples can be stored quite well over the winter, depending on the variety. They must be stored in a cool, dry place, protected from frost and temperature fluctuations. Boxes lined with newspaper are suitable for this. But be careful not to damage the apples, this encourages rot.

    Here are tips for apple harvesting and storage

    We have compiled more tips for harvesting and storing apples for you here.

    Apple Tree: Common Diseases and Pests

    Some apple varieties are susceptible to certain diseases and fungi. In addition to the choice of variety, the location also plays a role. For example, some locations are known for apple scab. We name the most common diseases and pests and appropriate control measures.

    Apple Spider Moth

    The apple spider moth is a small white butterfly with black spots. In spring you can recognize the infestation by the white webs that cover the tree to a greater or lesser extent. But they can easily be removed. The caterpillars of the apple spider moth feed on the tender buds and the mines of the young leaves. Even if the tree is eaten completely bare, it can regenerate completely and no further damage remains.

    In spring you can see the infestation by white webs

    Aphids

    The apple grass aphid and the apple fold aphid are particularly harmful to the apple tree. They can be recognized when damage occurs with curling and deformities on the leaves. Aphids can almost always be found on young shoots and buds, so you should check your tree for aphids as early as spring.

    Firebrand

    Fire blight is a reportable disease. It is caused by the bacterium Erwinia amylovora, which is transmitted by insects. The image of damage: The blossoms and youngShoots look as if they have been burned. They are dark brown to black in color. The disease can be deadly for the tree. Because of the risk of spreading, it is important to be particularly careful here, it is best to burn the cut wood.

    Fire blight can be transmitted by insects

    Unfortunately, these are not all common apple tree diseases and pests. In our special article we will introduce you to more and give you tips on how to combat them.

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