Even if lavender is quite frugal, it needs a little care from time to time. Here you can find out what to consider when cutting, fertilizing and watering.
All species of the genus Lavandula originally come from the Mediterranean region. However, lavender now also feels at home in more northern countries and can be found in many domestic gardens. However, an adequate supply of nutrients and water is vital for your lavender bush. However, regular pruning and forest protection measures are also of great importance for magnificent growth. Below we have summarized the most important aspects of lavender care for you. You can also find general information about lavender here in our overview article.
The Mediterranean lavender prefers warm and sunny locations with calcareous, well-drained soil. While true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is extremely robust and easy to care for, French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) and spike lavender () require Lavandula latifolia) take special protective measures at least over the winter. Your lavender will thank you for the right location and good care with lush growth and rich flowering. You can find more information about caring for French lavender in our special article.
Cutting Lavender
Regular pruning keeps your lavender in shape, promotes plant he alth and counteracts long-term bare bare older lavender bushes. It is best to trim your lavender twice a year. The lavender can be pruned back heavily (by one to two thirds) as soon as the first sprouting starts in spring.
After flowering (mid-July), pruning slightly promotes bushy growth. Young plants can be cut more (up to half) than older ones (about a third). If the lavender is cut too late in the summer, the lavender cannot ripen in time. The last cut should therefore be made at the beginning of August at the latest. If it's winterfrostbite still occurs, you can remove the dead plant parts in late spring.
You can find precise instructions for the correct pruning of lavender here.
Water the lavender
Lavender can obtain water very well from its long taproot, but waterlogging affects it and can promote the development of root rot. In the garden bed, you only have to water lavender during long dry periods in summer. In winter, watering may only be done if the soil is frost-free and permeable.
Potted lavender should be watered more regularly. It is best to ensure optimal pot drainage when planting. A drainage hole at the bottom allows excess irrigation water to drain away. We explain everything else that is important when watering lavender here.
Fertilize and lime lavender
You can already work some fertilizer or compost into the soil when planting. In the following years, an annual basic fertilization at the beginning of the growth phase (March/April) is sufficient. It is best to use organic long-term fertilizers such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer, because this decomposes slowly and provides your lavender with enough nutrients over the long term.
In pot cultivation, a second fertilization at the beginning of summer (end of June / beginning of July) optimally supports your lavender. Lime-poor soils - such as sandy soils - can be improved in the spring with a handful of commercially available garden lime. But you shouldn't just whitewash straight away. Make sure that you actually have real lavender in your garden. Finally, there are close relatives - such as French lavender - which tend to be disadvantageous for growth in calcareous soil.
You can find precise fertilizing instructions for lavender and more information on liming in our special article.
Caring for lavender in pots
While the robust lavender can be cultivated in beds all year round, many frost-sensitive species have to move to a pot by autumn at the latest. It should be noted that lavender forms a very large network of roots when cultivated in a pot, which requires a lot of space. A sufficiently large planter is therefore a must. In addition, the lavender in this form of cultivation makes somewhat greater demands on care due to the small pot volume. A regular cut, a suitable overwintering and thatannual repotting is critical for profuse flowering.
Repot lavender
When cultivating in planters, be sure to transplant your lavender into a larger pot if necessary. The new pot should be about 10 cm larger than the root ball of the plant. The introduction of a drainage layer also avoids waterlogging. You should also replace the old soil with fresh substrate so that your lavender has sufficient nutrients available again.
In our special article we explain what you should generally consider when repotting and cultivating potted lavender.
Caring for the lavender tree
The designation as "tree" or "perennial" is actually nonsense in connection with lavender. Botanically, lavender is a subshrub. Older lavender naturally lignifies with age and can even form a trunk if trained appropriately. The care of the lavender as a standard differs only slightly in terms of the procedure for a lavender in the form of a bush.
There are actually only major differences when pruning the lavender tree. So that you can enjoy your lavender tree for a long time, you should cut it regularly so that the high trunk does not become overgrown and, in the worst case, fall back into its natural, bushy growth habit. All you have to do is trim the crown. In spring (March/April), when no more frost is to be expected, you can cut back one to two thirds of the new shoots. Make sure to keep the shape of the crown as round as possible. You can then make a second cut after flowering (mid-July) to stimulate a second flowering.
You can find more information about the lavender tree here.
Winter lavender
Mediterranean lavender is only partially used to the low temperatures in our latitudes. While hardy lavender varieties - such as real lavender - can be planted in the garden bed without any problems, frost-sensitive varieties are better cultivated in pots.
Those species that are overwintered outdoors, however, absolutely need a wind-protected location. A layer of brushwood, leaves or mulch offers you protection from precipitation and cold as well as from too much sunlight. Before permafrost (under-15 °C) may also be protected by a cover made of garden fleece or coconut mats, which serves as thermal insulation.
Bring potted plants indoors before the first frost and place them in a dry, unheated room (basement, garage or conservatory). If you do not have enough space inside, the parking space in the garden should always be frost-free and partially shaded. To protect against ground frost, you can place the pot on an insulating mat, polystyrene or wood. If the temperature drops below zero for a long time, the bucket can also be covered with straw mats as thermal insulation.
You can find precise instructions for the successful overwintering of your lavender here.