Compost: everything you need to know about composting correctly

Composting is an old and sometimes complex practice. Read here what compost is, how it is made, how it is used and everything else about black gold.

Compost - it has accompanied mankind for a very long time. Only discovered centuries after people settled down, it was one of the first ways to keep cultivated land fertile. As part of the history of fertilizers, compost made a huge contribution to the progress of human civilization. In this article we've summarized information on all areas related to compost, and we'll direct you to more in-depth speci alty articles.

What is compost?

You will find a summary on the subject below - if you want to find out more, you can find the complete special article on compost here.

Compost is organic material that has been put together by human hands (Latin compositum="the put together") that has gone through the process of rotting. Although compost is humus, humus cannot be called compost because it occurs naturally without human intervention. During composting, old structures of the starting material are first dissolved by the activity of worms, insects and various microorganisms. Gradually, molecular and atomic building blocks are isolated in order to then be connected to form new molecules - called humic acids. Visible humus flakes are then formed in connection with clay particles. Compost varies widely, but is generally brown to black, smells woody, is heavier than peat, lighter than sand, and has many medium-sized pores. The color and structure, pH value, nutrient content and stability of the compost change depending on the starting materials, the duration and conditions of rotting. The designation always provides information about the properties, as we have listed for you below.

Description	Origin	Features	Usage
Fresh Compost	4 - 8 weeks rotting time,Composting not complete	High nutrient content, low stability	Plant Fertilizer
Finished compost	Min. 6 months rotting time	nutrient content medium, stability medium	Plant and Soil Fertilizer
Mature compost	2 - 3 years rotting time	Nutrient content low, stability high	Soil fertilizer
Green waste compost	From green waste (green space maintenance, gardening and landscaping)	Nutrient content low, stability high	Soil fertilizer
Biocompost	From organic waste (organic waste bin)	High nutrient content, high stability	Plant Fertilizer

As you can see, the properties of compost can be changed over the rotting time and the raw materials. The stability indicates how easily the compost can be broken down again by microorganisms in the soil after it has been spread. A high level of stability means that the compost is a good soil fertilizer: it improves the soil properties over the long term, but provides hardly any nutrients for plants. A compost that can be used as a plant fertilizer will quickly degrade due to its low stability, releasing nutrients that are available to plants. However, it does not remain permanently in the soil and therefore does not improve its properties. The designations should always be considered together: A fresh green compost is more nutritious than a finished green compost - but always much less nutrient than a fresh organic compost.

Compost can be used in many different ways. It can also act as a liquid soil conditioner in the form of compost tea, which can be used to inoculate soil or composts with beneficial microorganisms. The benefits of using compost as soil or plant fertilizer are also well known in agriculture and horticulture.

Compost Heap: Benefits and Function

Below is a summary of the benefits and function of compost heaps - read more here in the full feature article on the subject.

Benefits of a Compost Pile

Composting yourself has many advantages: the reduction in the size of the organic waste bin, the quick and easy disposal of garden waste and the receipt of high-quality, versatile fertilizer for soil and plants are probably the most important. An ecological drive can also play a role: Composting yourself is the most environmentally friendly way of dealing with your waste.Unfortunately, you can hardly sell your compost and turn it into money - if you want to get rid of it, your options are rather to give it away or to dispose of it.

Function of a compost heap

Composting in the heap or composter is silent, ste althy and seemingly slow. In fact, a lot happens in the process. The activity of the organisms involved can even result in high temperatures of over 60 °C. What happens there is part of the carbon cycle: the old structures of the organic waste, which mainly consists of carbon (C), are dissolved, microorganisms absorb carbon-containing compounds, use them to generate energy and breathe carbon dioxide (CO_{2 ) off. High levels of nutrients and above all nitrogen accelerate decomposition by making work easier for the microorganisms. After the structures have been broken down, new molecules are then formed in chemical and biological processes, namely the humic acids mentioned above.}

Since composting is carried out almost entirely by microorganisms, their living conditions determine how quickly and how hot the rotting takes place. The oxygen and water availability, the temperature, the pH value and the nutrient content are influencing factors here. The person who carries out the composting can also influence this. Of course, this requires a certain amount of work: the correct sorting, layers, any turning, liming and supplementing nutrients are activities that have to be done before you start removing the compost. Depending on the type of composter used - rent, rotting box, quick and thermal composter or worm box - the work differs. In principle, however, everything always revolves around optimizing the living conditions of the little helpers - the composting organisms.

Building compost: Instructions

In the following we will give you a summary of the topic of building compost - detailed information can also be found in the special article.

Building your own composter has its advantages: Not only do you usually save money, you also create the composter according to your own wishes and needs. Building your own is often not that complicated and requires neithergreat craftsmanship nor particularly unusual tools. With some wood, nails, a plastic tarpaulin and boards, a rotting box can already be made. A perforated barrel made of metal or plastic is sufficient for a quick composter, which with a little insulation can even become a thermal composter. Building a worm box is just as easy and inexpensive: you can build an expandable worm hotel using a few interlocking plastic boxes, a drain cock and two flower pots. The Bokashi bucket (in which, strictly speaking, fermentation and not composting takes place) is completed even faster: Two buckets are inserted into one another, sealed and a tap is attached. With the lid on, the Bokashi bucket is ready to use. Of course, you can also use other materials than those just mentioned. Good composters can also be made from paving stones or bricks, a metal fence or expanded metal, even from pallets, taking into account the needs of the composting microorganisms.

Buying a composter, on the other hand, can be both surprisingly cheap and expensive: price and composter quality are not necessarily in a clear relationship to each other. The appearance and durability often determine the price. Basically, it can be said that a composter can cost between 50 and 500 euros. The cheapest either weaken in functionality or durability, the most expensive models often score either with exceptional durability, a special and aesthetic design or with both.

Use compost bin

In this context, a frequently asked question about composting systems in the garden is about the border distance: Can you run into legal problems if you compost directly at the border fence? The answer is: maybe. While a compost does not count as a structure - and so it may be right on the border - if it produces unpleasant odors, attracts pests, or disturbs your neighbor in any other significant way, legal action can be taken against it.

Here are some summary notes on the subject of compost bins - if you want to read on we recommend our full feature article here.

Compost bins are available in different sizes, shapes, materials and with or without ventilation system and odor filter. Before you oneWhen buying buckets for your organic waste, you should briefly consider the effects of the following variables.

Variable	Effect on…
Size	Empty frequency, odor development, cleaning
Shape	Comfort on emptying (waste adhesion)
Material	Cleaning (suitable for dishwasher), durability
ventilation	Odour development, cleaning, liquid development
Odor filter	Odour development, fly infestation

The sticking of foul-smelling, damp and muddy waste in particular interferes with emptying and makes cleaning less convenient. But you can avoid this by having a particularly smooth and rounded interior, using compost bags or paper on the bottom of the bucket, good ventilation and choosing a rather small bucket.

There is often confusion about what can actually be disposed of in organic waste: This depends on whether you want to dispose of your waste in the organic waste bin or on your own compost heap. As a rule, the following should go in the bio bin:

• Vegetable and fruit leftovers (including citrus fruits)
• Leftover salad (also with dressing)
• Coffee and tea leftovers, with bags (if without metal)
• All dairy products - in smaller quantities (except milk)
• Bone (in normal household quantities)
• Egg Shells
• Nutshells
• Withered bouquets and potted plants with soil (without tie or metal)
• Shrub and tree trimmings, bark and branches
• Mowing
• Perennials (must remove plastic tie)
• Wild herbs
• Moss

Packaging residue, broken glass, stones and clay, plastic and metal foils, on the other hand, never belong in the organic waste. In the case of small animal litter, boiled, s alted, leftover meat and larger quantities of dairy products, the district or the local disposal point decides. This link is a useful website that will show you the way to proper disposal.

If you want to dispose of your waste on your own compost, the following also applies: animal products, cooked and s alted foods are taboo. The microorganisms in your compost are “raw food vegans”. You should also make sure that diseased or seed-bearing plants do not end up in your compost in large quantities.However, this does not apply if temperatures of over 60 °C are reached in your composting. However, this is almost never the case with private composting.

Especially in the warm seasons and especially in rural areas, flies on and in the compost bin can be a real nuisance. Not only are they a nuisance, in extreme cases they are also hygiene pests. In this article we explain in detail how to control fruit flies and you will also find a lot of information on this topic in the special article on the compost bin mentioned above.

Instead of a bucket to collect your organic waste, you can also compost directly in your home: worm boxes are now also available in unobtrusive designs that can also be used as seating. This eliminates the need to go to the bio bin. Instead, you can harvest vermicompost and "worm tea" in your own kitchen. The Bokashi bucket also produces a potent plant fertilizer from your organic waste in just a few weeks, as well as the so-called “Bokashi tea”, which is also a liquid that can be used as a fertiliser. How to use the Bokashi Bucket is explained in more detail in this article.

Composting correctly: tips and tricks

Again, here are some concluding remarks - you can read more about composting properly here in the full special article.

If you want to compost properly, you should understand the processes that take place in the compost. Composting is known to convert organic waste into compost. This happens in two phases: in the course of the main composting, the fresh compost is produced, from which in the post-composting first finished and then mature compost is made. The longer the rotting can take place, the more stable and nutrient-poor the compost becomes. In private composting, a cold composting usually takes place. This does not reach high temperatures above 60 °C, so that pathogens and weed seeds are not killed. The situation is different at recycling centers and in professional composting plants: when the windrows are set down in one go, the main composting process is turbulent and, with suitable insulation, the temperature rises to up to 80 °C - the result is sterile compost.

Before you start composting, first choose a composter. You can choose between a classic windrow, a rotting box - i.e. an enclosed windrow - quick composter, thermal composter, roll composter, worm boxes for use in the house or garden or Bokashi buckets (in which, strictly speaking, fermentation takes place). The different types ofHowever, composters differ not only in volume, the use, the speed of composting, the necessary work and the product of the composting also differ.

After choosing the composter, it is set up in a location that is as beneficial as possible. This should be partially shaded, protected and large enough to carry out the necessary work. In addition, there should be he althy and loose soil under the composter. And if possible, it shouldn't be on the border with your neighbors or too far away from where your compost waste is produced.

The living conditions of the composting microorganisms determine how well and quickly the composting takes place. The table below shows the influencing factors and possible measures you can take.

Factor	Influence	Influencing
Humidity	Microorganisms need water to live and reproduce	Shade, semi-shady location, moisten if necessary (summer)
Temperature	High temperatures promote activity of microorganisms	Semi-shady location, insulation of the composter, cover with insulating material, large volume leads to higher temperatures
Oxygen	Microorganisms breathe oxygen	Use of structural material, layer loosely, turn over, composter should allow circulation
Nutrients	Microorganisms need nutrients to live and reproduce, overly nutrient-rich material leads to volume loss and unstable compost	Composting a mixture of nutrient-rich and poor material, fertilizing material that is too nutrient-poor with nitrogen
pH value	Higher pH promotes the activity of microorganisms, lower pH promotes fungi	Use of lime when too much "acidic" material ends up on the compost

Tip: Fungi are also involved in composting. However, under their influence, poor-quality compost is formed, which is lighter in color and more acidic. It can be found in the garden with ericaceous plants such as rhododendrons (Rhododendron), blueberries (Vaccinium species), checkerberries (Gaultheria procumbens ) and heather lavender (Pieris japonica).

Compost Worms

Below we give you oneCompost Worm Summary - Find the full feature article here with more hints.

Compost worms are those that are used in compost heaps, composting plants, composters or worm boxes to accelerate or influence composting. Although they look confusingly similar to the common earthworm (Lumbricus terrestris) - unless you've got a trained zoological eye to call your own - they're not even the same genus. The species Eisenia fetida, Eisenia andrei and Eisenia hortensis are common compost worms that you can also produce in large numbers can be purchased. They are adapted to life in flat, very nutrient-rich areas and also feel comfortable in narrow worm boxes. In addition, they are characterized by a particularly large appetite and complementary food preferences, which is why they are rightly offered and bought together. In contrast, many worms found in the "wild" live in deeper zones, have particular dietary preferences, or are more frugal eaters - which is why many species cannot be used to aid in composting.

Compost worms feed by pushing their mouths against the substrate - their food and habitat - through the exertion of their body muscles. In doing so, they absorb both organic and inorganic material - such as clay particles, small grains of sand and the like. After digestion, the worm droppings are excreted together with calcium and a layer of mucus, which results in stable "aggregates", i.e. crumbs. Bacteria and fungi then colonize these and convert the worm excrement into elastic, absorbent and even more stable humus flakes.

Because the digestion of the worms speeds up the composting process, professional composting plants have long since “got the worm”. In the private context, compost worms are used in compost heaps and - much more intensively - in worm boxes. These are simple or divided boxes into which the compost is placed together with the worms. Models for indoor and outdoor use can be bought or you can make them yourself with relatively little effort. Due to their unobtrusive design and the additional use as seating, the dwellings of the worms have now even become socially acceptable. The very space-saving composting of your organic waste isan ecological and economical alternative to the bio bin - and can even be operated in a city apartment.

Of course, the responsibility for a few hundred to a few thousand worms also means some work and knowledge: In order for the worms to live well, digest a lot and reproduce, their basic needs must be met. This includes, for example, that it must be dark, not too humid and that sufficient main and trace nutrients must be available. A lack of oxygen due to the compost being layered too compactly robs them of air and they could suffocate. And although they can digest a surprising amount of waste, too much or incompatible food can also have a negative effect.

Compost soil: Fertilize plants with compost

In the following we give you a summary of compost soil. Compost soil and fertilization with compost are also de alt with in detail in the respective special articles.

To avoid confusion, here is the difference between compost and compost soil:

• Compost refers to the product of targeted composting, also known as rotting. It has very variable properties that depend heavily on the starting materials, the composting time and the composting conditions. For this reason, the use of compost can vary between use as soil fertilizer and use as plant fertilizer. All gradations in between are also possible. A soil-fertilizing compost is low in nutrients, very resistant to microbial degradation and sustainably improves many soil properties. It can therefore make the soil fertile for a long time, but provides hardly any plant nutrients. A plant-fertilizing compost, on the other hand, is rich in nutrients, very unstable to microbial degradation and provides plants with many nutrients. However, it does not remain in the soil - or only to a small extent - so that fertility is not increased in the long term.
• Compost soils are mixed soils that contain compost, among other things. Since pure compost is not an optimal basis for many plants, additives are used. These modify the properties of the mixture so that it is optimally adapted to the respective plant culture. Compost soil for summer flowers and potted plants, vegetables, shrubs or herbs with different compositions is available.

The application of compost is the same as with ordinary potting soil, when changing from peat topeat-free soils, however, some small things can change. Your fertilization with compost soil may be lower. Some peat-free mixes may sag or need a little more frequent watering. However, since the extraction of peat in Germany and elsewhere is not justifiable from both a regional and global perspective, this minimal adjustment should ideally be a matter of course for every garden and nature lover. You can also make compost yourself. This is still common in some nurseries and secret mixing ratios are jealously guarded here. In the special article you will find some suggestions for your own mixtures and detailed information about possible additives. Of course, you will also find suggestions for peat-free soils there, which can also be found in hardware stores or garden centers. Our organic soils - such as the Plantura organic potting soil - are peat-free or peat-reduced.

The application of compost depends on what you ultimately want to achieve with the application. You can simply fertilize beds, lawns or wooded areas with a nutrient-rich organic/ready compost or organic/fresh compost. For this purpose, a thin layer of 0.5 to 1 cm thickness is spread over the entire surface and only worked in flat. However, if your goal is to improve a barren patch of land, consider using green/mature compost and reading this special article on humus management.

Composting toilet

Here we present some summary notes on the subject of composting toilets - for more details see the full feature article here.

Composting toilets, also known as dry toilets (TC), are often associated with wearing jute clothing and the eco-movement. Very few people know that the composting toilet is by no means a modern development of the outhouse, but that its use was common before the water closet (toilet). In fact, the story could have gone very differently and the toilet could have disappeared into the sinking of the story. At least from an ecological point of view, this might have been better: The luxury of a quick flush with water results in an incredible amount of extra work and pollution of our water cycle that can hardly be cleaned up. The use of the composting toilet, on the other hand, leaves the nutrient and water cycle separate and thus not only protects the water. After a sufficiently long composting or through pasteurization - i.e. heating -Hygienic compost is created from our legacies, which could be safely used again for food production.

Composting toilets are available in various designs and for every purpose. What they all have in common is the use of so-called structural material, which binds liquid and promotes subsequent composting. It also reliably prevents odors. Bark mulch, wood chips or wood ash, for example, are suitable as structural material. Basically, the excrement is first collected and then composted. This means that sooner or later the collection container will have to be emptied. Depending on the system, the contents have already turned into compost or not.

• The simple "collective toilet" collects solid and liquid together. It must be emptied frequently, otherwise the user will sooner or later be bothered by unpleasant smells. Modifications of the collective toilet allow the liquid to be separated, so that odors are greatly reduced. In this way, the volume is also greatly reduced, so that the emptying interval is significantly extended.
• A slightly different type is the so-called dry composting toilet (TTC). With this variant, liquids and solids never end up in the same container, which is made possible by the special design of the toilet seat.
• Also transitional forms between toilet and TC are possible and modern compost toilets do not have to look like the throne of an extraterrestrial alien king: It is not only possible to build a perfectly fitted compost toilet yourself from kits, there are even specialized companies in this area.

Apart from the fact that using a composting toilet makes a lot of ecological sense, it saves money. And installation is also possible in locations that are not connected to the sewage network. This can be the case in remote, waterfront or very rocky locations. Laying sewage pipes is not practical here. It is therefore hardly surprising that the compost toilet is quite common in some regions of Sweden.

By the way, the compost toilet is also available for rent - since it is as mobile as a toilet can be. For larger or smaller events, you can also choose the environmentally friendly version instead of the famous dixie toilet. Some of these rental toilets meet the highest standards and are built in such a clever way that the user hardly notices that he isdid something better than pollute the environment during his relief.

Mix your own compost

You can buy potting soil from compost or make it yourself. Especially if you have the opportunity to produce compost yourself, you should consider making your own potting soil from it. You can adapt these individually to the needs of different plants. The production of your own compost also has other advantages, such as the low price, environmental compatibility and the certainty of the ingredients contained. Of course, composting yourself takes some time and effort, and it is up to you to procure the additional additives. In the course of composting, first fresh compost, then finished compost and finally mature compost are produced one after the other. You can use all of these compost molds to mix the compost, but not all are suitable for every purpose. Before mixing, the compost should be heat sterilized to kill pathogens and weed seeds, which are very troublesome, especially in flower pots indoors. How this works and which mixtures are suitable for summer flowers, herbs and shrubs in the bed or tub, for cuttings or for sowing, we will show you in this special article on the topic "Mixing compost soil yourself".

Buy compost

In addition to the summary that you will find below, we have prepared the complete special article on the subject of buying compost for you here.

Compost is a kind of man-made humus - and you can not only make it yourself, but also buy it. This is particularly useful if you need compost quickly for planting, soil improvement or fertilization and cannot wait a whole year for your own compost to be ready. Compost can be purchased at hardware stores and garden centers in the form of the compost soil mentioned above. However, the small volumes and the relatively high price make this variant impractical if you need a little more compost. The cheapest option is therefore to drive to a local recycling center, where compost is constantly being made from the contents of the organic waste bins and the green waste from the green area maintenance. The materials are often mixed, but in some places nutrient-rich organic compost and nutrient-poor green compost are offered separately. Another possibility is the private way: maybe you know a gardener whoseCompost production exceeds his own needs, so he gives you some of the black gold?

Of course, peat is also partly humus. However, in addition to this "swamp humus", peat also contains large amounts of undecomposed material. Peat is comparatively cheap and can be used to improve soil structure by adjusting its pH with lime. Over time, the material that has not decomposed becomes humus. However, since the use of peat is one of the causes of many environmental problems - including the threat of climate change - peat use should be avoided or at least severely restricted if possible.