What materials can be used for mulching? Which mulching material is used for which purpose? We show the advantages and disadvantages of bark mulch, pine mulch and Co.
Mulch is an integral part of most people's gardens. Many particularly appreciate the visual appeal of different mulch materials. But mulching not only has a positive effect on the aesthetics, it can also support the plants: it reduces evaporation near the ground, thus protecting against drying out, protecting the soil from erosion and balancing out temperature fluctuations. In addition, many mulch materials such as bark mulch can be used to control weeds: they reduce weed pressure because they inhibit the growth of uninvited guests. Especially in winter, mulch is a real life insurance - it protects plants that cannot overwinter indoors from freezing and thus ensures that they get through the next year unscathed. There are now a whole range of materials that are said to be suitable for mulching. We will tell you here what advantages and disadvantages they have and what material is to be used for which plant. You can find out exactly what advantages mulching brings in the garden in our special article.
Bark mulch
Bark mulch is probably one of the best-known mulch materials and is particularly popular because of its pretty appearance. The organic material consists of the bark of various coniferous and deciduous trees and is ideal for mulching perennial beds, but is also used as a path covering. Ferns, hydrangeas (Hydrangea) and rhododendrons (Rhododendron) especially love the bark mulch. This suppresses weeds particularly reliably and also protects the soil from drying out and erosion. At the same time, bark mulch has a soil-activating effect, because it slowly decomposes into humus and also offers various beneficial insects a shelter. Unfortunately, bark mulch also has numerous disadvantages: Fresh bark mulch often contains herbicidal tannins that remove nitrogen from the soil. This problem can be reduced by using already fermented bark humus instead of bark mulchand also pay attention to sufficient nitrogen fertilization. In addition, specially purchased bark mulch is often contaminated with increased cadmium concentrations. In addition, not only beneficial insects, but also voracious snails fill themselves up particularly well in bark mulch - to mulch the vegetable patch, it is therefore better to use other materials.
Pine Mulch and Pine Bark
Pine bark or pine mulch and bark mulch are very similar - with the small but subtle difference that only pine (Pinus pinea) is used as the starting material for the former. As a result, pine bark mulch has many advantages of bark mulch. For example, it impresses with good weed suppression and protection against drying out. The pine mulch is also visually in no way inferior to the bark mulch with its attractive red-brown color and its pleasant smell.
"In addition, pine bark decomposes much more slowly, so it does not have to be replaced as often, it does not grow moss and is less polluted. However, pine mulch also removes nitrogen from the soil during the rotting process (albeit less than bark mulch), which needs to be balanced with additional fertilization.
In addition, pine mulch is often significantly more expensive than normal bark mulch and has a worse CO2 balance due to the mostly long transport route. Pine bark is particularly suitable for mulching perennial beds, but can also be used for potted plants. Unfortunately, it is not well suited for mulching the vegetable patch.
wood chipper
Whether for educational pruning or even when felling entire trees - wood is produced in almost every large garden. But instead of simply throwing away the clippings, you can also use them sensibly: shredded with a shredder, you get a great mulch material. The advantages here are obvious, because wood chips are cheap, readily available and (at least if they come from your own garden) also sustainable. At the same time, wood chips rot much more slowly than bark mulch, so that the mulch layer does not have to be renewed as often. In addition, wood chips used as mulch reliably suppress weeds and prevent the soil from silting up and drying out. Unfortunately, however, the wood chips remove nitrogen from the soil, which is why they are less suitable for mulching the vegetable bed. On the other hand, wood chips are suitable for mulching perennial beds if you pay attention to theCompensate for nitrogen withdrawal from the wood chippings with fertilization. However, wood chips are particularly popular in gardens with children - laid in a thick layer, they serve as a shock-absorbing surface on playgrounds or walkways, which can minimize injuries.
Leaves for mulching
For many gardeners, the fallen leaves in autumn only cause tedious work, but autumn leaves can also be put to good use in the garden. In fact, skillful practice can turn necessity into a virtue. Leaves can be used wonderfully as mulch and don't cost a cent. A layer of leaves protects the soil from drying out and also acts as a weed barrier. Over the winter, the foliage is then slowly decomposed by microorganisms, releasing nutrients into the soil. However, the protective effect of foliage against frost is particularly good, which is particularly important in autumn and winter - foliage is therefore predestined for mulching the perennial bed in particular, as it reliably protects plants that are sensitive to the cold. Leaves can also be used to mulch the vegetable bed, because forest plants such as raspberries (Rubus idaeus) or strawberries (Fragaria) in particular react positively to the leaf protection in the root area. Only the appearance of the leaves in the bed may bother some garden owners and is therefore a disadvantage. You should also only use he althy leaves for mulching, otherwise diseases such as powdery mildew can spread in the garden.
Finally, it is also important to pay attention to the type of foliage chosen - some leaves, for example from the walnut tree (Juglans regia), contain tannins, which can restrict the growth of other plants.
Needle for mulching
A coniferous tree in the garden can be an enrichment - if only it weren't for that annoying litter of needles that accumulates year after year. But similar to leaves, the needles of almost all conifers can also be used as excellent mulching material. On the one hand, they prevent strong temperature fluctuations on the ground and reduce soil compaction, but on the other hand - like many other types of mulch - they allow better water infiltration. The needle litter rots for a very long time, so it does not have to be replaced as often. The terpenes contained in the needles delay the germination of other plants, so that weeds are effectively suppressed - however, needle litter should not be used to mulch seedlings or young plants, as this effect is also negativecan affect them. Established plants, on the other hand, are not negatively affected. It should also be noted that the needles have a low pH value. This makes needle litter particularly suitable for mulching bog beds or heather plants and is very popular with rhododendrons and hydrangeas.
Contrary to popular belief, however, the needles of the trees are also suitable for mulching vegetable beds: in fact, the ideal pH value for most vegetable plants is in the slightly acidic range, so mulching with fir or pine needles is not a problem, if the soil has not already had a too low pH value. Blueberries (Vaccinium myrtillus) and cranberries (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) even prefer acidic soil, so a mulch layer with needles is ideal here.
Straw for mulching
Mulching with straw is a tradition in many gardens - no wonder, after all, straw is not only cheap and readily available, but also offers numerous advantages as a mulching material. Straw allows the soil to be well aerated, suppresses weeds and releases nutrients into the soil as it weathers. Straw is particularly popular when mulching vegetable beds, as plants such as strawberries and courgettes (Cucurbita pepo var. giromontiina) do not lie directly on the ground and so stay clean. Straw is particularly useful for mulching plants with a long growing season - such as tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) or pumpkin (Cucurbita) - as this is only very slowly rotted. Perennial shrubs also benefit from this, which is why straw is also suitable for mulching perennial beds.
However, straw also removes nitrogen from the soil, which is why it is important to ensure that the soil is sufficiently supplied with nutrients. In addition, care should be taken in the kitchen garden to only use untreated straw for mulching, since treated straw may contain residues from the chemicals used.
Lawn clippings for mulching
It doesn't matter whether it's a small garden or a large property - lawn clippings are produced in almost every garden. Anyone who has had enough of simply throwing away the mowed green can give the lawn clippings a second life: as mulch, it prevents drying out and silting up, promotes soil life and inhibits weed growth. The particular advantage of lawn clippings is that they are available quickly and rot slowly. Nevertheless, you have to use lawn clippings when mulchingpay attention to a few points. You should always only apply a thin layer of mulch and make sure that it is not too wet, otherwise it can quickly rot. If you mix some straw between the lawn clippings, you can minimize this risk by better aerating the mulch layer. Lawn clippings also remove nitrogen from the soil during rotting, so an adequate supply of nutrients is essential. Lawn clippings are particularly suitable for mulching the vegetable bed - over time, this forms a stable layer of mulch between young vegetable plants, which keeps the moisture in the soil.
Expert tip: The clippings are also ideal for mulching the lawn: So-called mulching mowers shred the lawn clippings as they are mowing and then leave them on the lawn as a fine mulch, where they can be removed rots and returns its nutrients to the soil.