Lavender creates a Mediterranean flair in every garden. You can find out everything about lavender - from planting to cutting - in this article.
True lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) has always been popular, not only in the Mediterranean region, and has long been one of the best-known herbs and medicinal plants. The subshrub from the mint family (Lamiaceae) originally comes from the Mediterranean region, but with the right care is easy to cultivate in our latitudes.
Like many other herbs from the Mediterranean region, lavender is one of the subshrubs which, in contrast to herbaceous plants such as perennials, do not go completely underground in winter, but instead become woody from below. This means they can cope well with higher temperatures and periods of drought.
Origin and History of Lavender
In its homeland, the warm countries of the Mediterranean region, the common lavender prefers dry slopes and stony soils and has penetrated up to mountainous regions of 1600 meters in height. Lavender has been used in cosmetics and medicine since ancient times. Lavender owes its name to this circumstance, which is derived from the Latin word “lavare” (meaning “to wash”). Pliny already reported on lavender oil as a fragrant additive in bath water. The lavender plant finally reached us across the Alps in the luggage of Benedictine monks, who cultivated it as a medicinal herb in the monastery garden. Lavender was used to treat a wide variety of ailments and was even said to help against the plague. Incidentally, lavender was not first cultivated commercially in Provence in France, but in England. Queen Elizabeth I already used it as a perfume and Queen Victoria was also an enthusiastic lover of the fresh, herbaceous lavender scent. In areas like Kent and Norfolk you can still admire English lavender fields today. In addition, there are always numerous new breeds from England.
Buy lavender: You should pay attention to this
Both lavender seeds and pre-grown young plants are available in stores. In the garden center you will usually only find a few varieties of the real thingLavender (Lavandula angustifolia) and Crested Lavender (Lavandula stoechas). There are rarer specimens in perennial nurseries, in tree nurseries or in online shops. However, when choosing the variety, consider the later intended use, because not every lavender is suitable for the garden bed. While the real lavender is relatively hardy, the frost-sensitive French lavender is only suitable for pot cultivation in our latitudes. In our special article we explain what else you should consider when buying lavender.
Lavender Varieties: Popular and Well-Known Varieties and Species
Of the 25 types of lavender known today, common lavender is the most popular and comes up with a wide variety of varieties. Even with the foliage, there are nuances between the individual varieties, ranging from dark green to almost silvery white tones. The flower colors are even more diverse, showing a wide spectrum of blue and purple tones, but also pink and white. Common lavender usually reaches an impressive height of 60 to 70 cm. However, new breeds can be significantly lower, so that the right variety can be found for every garden. The dwarf forms of lavender with a height of 25 to 35 cm, on the other hand, do not grow as quickly and tend to be narrower and more compact than their relatives. That is why they are particularly suitable as tub plants and as border for beds. Below we have listed some of the most popular and well-known lavender varieties. You can also find other types of real lavender here.
'Blue Cushion': Compact cultivar with squat spikes and large, durable, light purple flowers; well suited for pot culture or the rock garden; Dwarf Form
'Dwarf Blue': Proven, medium-tall variety with grey-green foliage and violet flowers, which makes a good bed border and scented hedge
'Hidcote Blue': Proven variety from England with dark blue-violet flowers and a strong fragrance; compact and slow-growing, however, under ideal growing conditions the plants can become quite large; Growth height: 30 - 60 cm
'Munstead': Early flowering cultivar from England with midnight blue flowers and attractive silver-grey foliage; intense fragrance; compact growth, therefore very suitable for bed borders
'Nana Alba': Slow growing dwarf form withbushy structure and white flowers
The variety of lavender is, however, much larger. In our special article you will find an overview of the best lavender varieties and types for beds and pots.
We also took a closer look at the type of French lavender here. A special variety is white lavender, which we are going to look at in more detail here.
Planting lavender: location, bed neighbors and procedure
Lavender plants love warm, full sun locations with well-drained, calcareous soil. Since they do not appreciate waterlogging at all, a drainage layer of pebbles should be laid when planting and sand mixed into the substrate. Real lavender gets along very well in the bed with other Mediterranean herbs that have similar site requirements, such as sage (Salvia), thyme (Thymus ) or mountain savory (Satureja montana). In addition, lavender is an excellent insect pasture, so that when the flower spikes are in bloom, butterflies, bees and bumblebees are teeming with them.
One often reads about lavender as the ideal companion for roses, which is said to protect them from aphids, for example. Due to the different location requirements of the two plants, rose (Rosa) and lavender are not such a dream couple as assumed. More recommended are, for example, catnip (Nepeta cataria) or thyme (Calamintha nepeta subsp. nepeta) . If you still don't want to do without lavender in the rose bed, you should keep a minimum distance of 80 to 100 cm between the plants and thin out the planting hole for the lavender with a little sand. Lavender is also ideal as a fragrant bed border or low hedge. For this purpose, about three plants should be planted per meter.
The best way to plant lavender:
- Choose a warm, sunny location
- Dig a sufficiently large planting hole
- Mix heavy garden soil with sand
- Place the lavender plant in the middle
- Fill with loose, calcareous soil
- Press lightly and pour well
In this article we explain what else you need to consider when planting lavender.
Planting lavender in a pot
Lavender also thrives in pots and brings a Mediterranean flair to patios and balconies. However, you should make sure that the water can drain off well and that there is no waterlogging, especially when cultivating in potsforms. The pot should therefore definitely have a drainage hole. A drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles and a rather nutrient-poor and calcareous substrate also ensure that the plant thrives. The Plantura organic herb and seed soil is ideal for Mediterranean herbs such as lavender. For more information on planting lavender in pots, click here.
Smaller varieties are particularly suitable for pot cultivation. You can find lavender varieties that are particularly suitable for pots in our special article.
Plant Lavender Tree
The designation as a tree is actually nonsensical in connection with lavender, because botanically the Mediterranean herb is one of the subshrubs. As such, it becomes lignified with age and can even form a trunk with appropriate training. Whether lavender is hardy as a standard tree depends on the variety from which it was grown. It is therefore best to plant your lavender tree in a pot and bring it inside in winter.
A sheltered spot in the garden or on the balcony is ideal for summer. When planting, however, be sure to choose a sufficiently large bucket, because the roots of lavender require a lot of space. The lavender tree feels most comfortable in loose, sandy substrate and will thrive wonderfully with optimal care. You can also find more information on the proper care of your lavender tree in our special article.
Lavender flowering time: When does lavender bloom?
There is no general answer to the question of when lavender blooms, because the flowering time depends primarily on the variety. The French lavender opens its flowers as early as May and is therefore one of the early bloomers of the Lavandula genus. It is characterized above all by its long flowering period until August or even September. True lavender, on the other hand, was originally only to be found in higher mountain regions and therefore only opens its flowers from the beginning of June. However, it is extremely robust and can even be overwintered outside. A short time later, spike lavender (Lavandula latifolia) begins to bloom.
Of course, the flowering time not only depends on the species or variety, but also on the weather, the soil conditions and care. Under optimal conditions, your lavender will bloom profusely in the warm summer months and spread its fragrance over several periods in the gardenmonths.
Here we explain how you can extend the flowering time of lavender.
Caring for Lavender
An adequate supply of nutrients and water is vital for your lavender. However, regular pruning and forest protection measures are also of great importance for splendid growth and many fragrant flowers. Below we go into the care of lavender in general.
You can find more information about caring for French lavender in this special article, more about general care of lavender here.
Water the lavender in the bed and in the pot
Over time, lavender has adapted to the site conditions of its Mediterranean homeland, so that it thrives very well on poor soil and with little water. With its long taproot, it is able to pull water and nutrients up from deeper layers of the earth. However, it is very sensitive to waterlogging and tends to root rot if there is too much moisture. In the bed, lavender only needs to be watered during long dry periods. Potted lavender, on the other hand, cannot develop long taproots and should therefore be watered more regularly. Allow the top layer of soil to dry between waterings and drain any water in the saucer to prevent root rot.
You can find everything about watering lavender in beds or pots in more detail in our special article.
Cutting Lavender
Lavender is a semi-shrub, which means that the annual, green shoots become woody from below over the years. For the cut, this means that a few centimeters of the green wood from the previous year may remain and should only be carefully cut into the woody part. Old, bald lavender bushes that have not been pruned for several years should not be radically shortened under any circumstances, as the plants from very old wood only sprout reluctantly or not at all. Regular pruning in late spring and summer is therefore important to prevent bare skin and keep the plants compact.
You shouldn't prune after the beginning of August or even in autumn. As soon as the lavender begins to sprout in spring, a vigorous pruning of up to two-thirds of the foliage is possible to rejuvenate the plant and encourage branching growth. When cutting, you should also ensure an even cutround shape of the plant. A hedge trimmer is particularly suitable for this. A slight pruning of about a third of the leaf mass after flowering stimulates the plant to grow again and promotes bushy growth. For a time-saving summer pruning, the stems of the flower spikes can also be tied together and the whole bunch cut off at once.
For more detailed instructions on cutting lavender in spring and summer, see our special article.
Fertilize and lime lavender
Lavender grows in its natural environment on poor, stony soil and can therefore also cope with few nutrients. It is best to work some fertilizer or compost into the soil when planting. In the following years, an annual basic fertilization at the beginning of the growth phase (March/April) is sufficient. Additional fertilization at the beginning of summer also optimally supplies your lavender in pot culture.
Mainly organic fertilizers with a long-term effect such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer are particularly suitable for your lavender in the garden and in pots, as they slowly decompose and provide the plant with enough nutrients over the long term. You can also improve lime-poor soils in the spring with a handful of commercially available garden lime. But make sure beforehand that you really have real lavender in your garden. For close relatives - like the French lavender - calcareous soils are rather disadvantageous.
How to fertilize and lime lavender is explained in detail in our special article.
Winter lavender
The following applies to the winter months: Plants planted in pots are more sensitive to frost than those in beds, so a wind and rain-protected location and good winter protection are a must. For example, the pot can be wrapped in several layers of bubble wrap to prevent the root ball from freezing. The aerial parts of the lavender plant can also be covered with fleece. So that the root ball does not dry out completely, you should water sparingly - but only on frost-free days.
You can find detailed information on overwintering lavender in beds and pots here. If you are looking for hardy lavender varieties, you will definitely find what you are looking for in our special article.
Propagating lavender
Lavender can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering. For the hobby garden, the propagation of cuttings is certainly the most reliable and fastest option. This ensures that the varietal characteristics are passed on unchanged, because plants propagated by seed often deviate greatly from the habit of the mother plant.
The ideal times for propagating cuttings are early spring and late summer. The fresh cuttings from cutting can be used very well here. About 10 cm long, unbranched shoot tips without flowers are particularly suitable for the propagation of cuttings. All leaves are carefully removed from the lower third of the cuttings, then the shoots are planted in a mixture of sand and potting soil and kept moist. Once the shoots have formed roots, they can be isolated. In this state, however, the little plants cannot withstand the winter, so that if they are propagated by cuttings in late summer, they overwinter frost-free and are not planted out until spring.
If you still want to try the seed, you should definitely note that lavender germinates in the light. The seeds should therefore not be covered with soil, but only lightly pressed onto the moist potting soil. After about two weeks in a bright, warm location, the first seedlings will appear. As soon as the first leaves have appeared, the seedlings can be pricked out. However, the young plants are only allowed outside when cold temperatures are no longer to be expected, i.e. at the end of May at the earliest.
See our special article for more information on propagating lavender by cuttings, sowing and dividing.
Harvest, dry and store lavender
Especially the flowers of the lavender, but also the young leaf shoots are used in the kitchen, household and cosmetics. It is therefore harvested during the flowering period between June and August, as soon as the flowers open. In order to avoid mold formation when drying the flowers, a dry harvest day should be chosen - this also shortens the drying time. Directly after harvesting, the flower spikes should be allowed to dry loosely spread out on a cloth. You can either hang them up in bundles or leave them on the cloth to dry thoroughly. The dried lavender flowers should then be stored in a dark, dry and cool place.
You can find detailed instructions on how to dry lavender here.
Lavender: ingredients and use as a medicinal plant
True lavender is used in the kitchen as well as in cosmetics and medicine. It contains many tannins and other secondary plant substances and up to 3% essential oil, which gives it its characteristic aroma. The composition of lavender oil is extremely complex and currently includes over 150 different compounds. Linalool and linalyl acetate together account for up to 75%. But other components - such as cineol, borneol and camphor - are also crucial for the characteristic scent.
Lavender: use as a medicinal plant
The essential lavender oil is used both in cosmetics and in naturopathy and is considered effective against fungi and bacteria. Lavender is also used to treat skin impurities, burns and inflammation. A particularly high concentration can be found in the flowers, from which the essential oil is extracted by steam distillation. Although distilling essential oil at home is entirely possible, the fresh or dried lavender flowers can also be preserved in oil. It is important that all parts of the plant are well covered with oil so that no mold forms. After 10 to 14 days, the lavender oil is ready and can be used, for example, as a massage oil to relieve muscle tension or as a relaxing bath additive. Bath s alts with lavender flowers are also quick and easy to make.
Lavender: use in kitchen and household
It's just as easy to make delicious herb oil for the kitchen. Due to its intense aroma, however, lavender is only used sparingly in the kitchen or in combination with other herbs and spices. However, lavender often gives Mediterranean dishes the final kick and is often included in the "Herbs of Provence" mix, for example. It goes particularly well with lamb, poultry, feta and goat cheese, grilled vegetables or salads. But despite its unlimited uses in the kitchen, the question arises again and again as to whether lavender is not poisonous to humans and pets.
In our special article we explore the myth of poisonous lavender.
Since lavender is easy to dry and retains its intense violet colour, the dried flower spikes are very suitable for decoration. And of course you can also take scented cushions with youFill lavender flowers from your own garden.
Lavender against mosquitoes and moths
While people usually find the scent of lavender pleasant and calming, many insects find the scent repellent. As a mosquito repellent, for example, self-made lavender oil is very useful. Apply the oil to all unclothed parts of the body. Another option is, for example, to spray clothing with lavender hydrolat, a by-product of the manufacture of lavender essential oil.
To ward off clothes moths, you can easily make a delicately scented ironing water with distilled water and a few drops of essential lavender oil. It is best to fill the mixture into an empty spray bottle and moisten the laundry with it before ironing. Another option is to sew a scented sachet for the closet. Filled with dried lavender flowers and placed between the clean laundry, it keeps annoying moths away. However, you should change the contents of the sachet every now and then, as the scent will fade over time.
Lavender: diseases and pests
Lavender is an undemanding plant and due to its high proportion of essential oils it is avoided by most predators. However, waterlogging, which can lead to root rot, can be really dangerous for lavender. But this can be well prevented by a drainage layer, a permeable soil and only moderate watering. However, too much moisture also makes the plants susceptible to fungal diseases, which usually show up as brown or black spots on the leaves. Infected plant parts should be removed immediately to prevent further spread of the infection.
See our feature article for more tips on how to propagate lavender.