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Valerian helps with inner restlessness and sleep disorders. It's easy to grow in your own garden - we'll show you how.
Many myths and stories surround the real medicinal valerian (Valeriana officinalis). He is said to have helped soulful executioners to become bloodthirsty and the Pied Piper of Hamelin is said to have lured the rats out of their holes with valerian. In any case, due to the substances it contains, it acts as an aphrodisiac on cats. As a medicinal plant, it is very popular for restlessness and sleep disorders. It can be used as a tablet, tea, capsule or tincture. And in the kitchen, too, the sprouting young spring herb can be used in a salad - for example with the closely related lamb's lettuce (Valerianella). In order to be able to harvest successfully from home-grown valerian, there are a few things to consider. We will guide you step by step to the successful cultivation of the popular medicinal herb in your own garden.
1. Location
Valerian feels most comfortable in a sunny location. But even in semi-shade, it thrives in a pinch. In contrast to Mediterranean herbs, valerian, which is native to Europe and western Asia, prefers a moist location to a stony and dry location. In the wild, it is therefore often found near bodies of water. However, soil that is too heavy, such as clay soil, also affects valerian. Because these soils prevent it from developing its roots and its coveted rhizome. Instead of fully developing its growth potential of more than one meter, the stunted growth shines and, as a result, with lower yields.
2. Propagation
The easiest way to propagate valerian is by sowing. Sow in March or early April, preferably in a seed tray indoors. If sown outdoors at this time, the tender seedlings may be endangered by frost. In the bed, however, it is possible to spread the seeds without any problems as early as May. Since valerian germinates in the light, the sowing must not be covered with substrate. Otherwise the germination process of the seed would be hindered. Therefore must be checked regularlybe sure the seed is sufficiently moist. In order to achieve the best possible results for the four to six-week germination of the valerian, only fresh seed from the previous year should be used if possible. The valerian seed loses its ability to germinate very quickly, so that soon no small plants will grow from the seed if it has already been there for a few years.
3. Watering and fertilizing
The valerian prefers a moist location, but it doesn't like waterlogging either. That's why it has to be watered regularly, but not in such a way that its location threatens to be completely wet. However, it does not withstand longer periods of drought as well as its Mediterranean colleagues. Extreme drought can even lead to death relatively quickly for valerian. It also has to be watered occasionally when the valerian is planted in the bed. When cultivating in a pot, it has to be watered much more frequently. That's why the pot shouldn't be too small right from the start.
When growing in beds, a good, humus-rich subsoil is usually sufficient for a sufficient supply of nutrients. This can be achieved, for example, by incorporating organic materials such as compost or dung or organic commercial fertilizers such as horn shavings or bone meal in the spring.
The same applies to fertilization as to watering: Here, too, human hands have to be helped more often than with outdoor cultivation. If you use a primarily organic organic fertilizer such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer, one application of fertilizer at the beginning of the growth phase in spring is sufficient.
4. Maintain
Cultivating valerian in your own garden does not actually require any major care measures. The classic problem of hibernation also does not apply, because the above-ground parts of the valerian plant die off in autumn. The underground rhizomes, which survive the winter, are hardy. However, valerian can occasionally be attacked by harmful organisms. If aphids appear, they can be sprayed off best and most gently. In the case of powdery mildew, a white mold lawn forms on the leaf surfaces. In this case, the fertilization should be stopped immediately and the plants should be further separated if they are too dense.
5. Harvest
When cultivating valerian, the rhizome in particular should be harvested. That is why it is only harvested in the second year of cultivation, when the plantonce hibernated. Then she would have more time to train the underground system properly. This ensures a rich valerian harvest. The plant parts are then carefully dug up in autumn and can be stored. However, you can also use the mature seeds of the plant (these have the same effect as the rhizome). As soon as the inflorescences with the seeds turn brown in autumn, they can be harvested.
6. Store
Both underground parts of the plant and the seeds are dried for some time after harvest. The seeds can be easily removed, the rhizomes can be grated. Both can then be further processed in various forms. Used as a tea, nothing needs to be processed. However, if you want to make ointments or tinctures from valerian, the seeds and parts of the rhizome have to be powdered.
It doesn't take any extraordinary gardening skills to successfully grow valerian in your own garden. However, the soothing herb must not be neglected and shows a reward for a regular water supply with a bountiful harvest.