Vegetative propagation is a great way to propagate plants without seeds - or to regrow vegetable waste.
Plants have a great ability: they can grow a whole plant from single or even separated plant parts. This enables so-called vegetative propagation. Since this does not depend on seeds for the reproduction of plants, it is also referred to as asexual or asexual reproduction. The newly created offspring are identical clones of the mother plant. The daughter plant and its ancestor have exactly the same genetic identity. This is particularly useful for gardeners who have a single plant with special properties and are keen to propagate them. Through vegetative propagation they can obtain them, while through seed propagation there would be changes in the characteristics of the plant's offspring.
Vegetative Propagation: Examples and Diversity
Vegetative propagation can be done in different ways. Kindels are small independent plants that develop on runners from the mother plant. They can simply be separated and go directly into independence. In order to successfully complete this form of propagation, no special needs have to be met. The small plants that develop on the mother plant can be treated just like their ancestor.
Even if fruit trees, tomatoes or cucumbers are grafted onto a rootstock with favorable and desirable properties, this is a form of asexual propagation. The most common grafting methods are grafting and budding. Depending on the grafting method and the species to be grafted, grafting is done at different times of the year.
Some plant species form different types of underground storage organs. They can sprout and grow into new plants. Examples include onions and potato tubers. Onions, garlic, potatoes and the like are also predestined for vegetative propagation. To do this, the thickened subterranean storage organs in theSpring planted in the ground and the development takes its course.
However, with a little human help, clones can also be grown on the mother plant and prepared for independence. Moss-off is such a slow detachment of a woody shoot from the mother plant. For this purpose, an indentation is made, which is held open with a stone, for example. Moist moss is wrapped around the created wound and wrapped with cling film. Roots form out of the wound into the moss ball. If there are enough roots, the woody shoot can be cut off below the newly formed roots and then potted. From now on, extraordinary care is no longer required.
Propagating cuttings
But the form par excellence of vegetative propagation is probably the cultivation of new plants from cuttings. Especially leaf cuttings, but also shoot cuttings are often used. Species that can be propagated via leaf cuttings can be removed from individual leaves that are placed in the substrate. Several small plants will then develop from the leaf. When propagating via scion cuttings, a distinction must be made between scion tip cuttings and partial cuttings. In the latter, any part of the shoot is used as a cutting. The condition is that the cutting contains at least one leaf bud - a so-called node. This ensures a favorable level of the phytohormones required for rooting and leads to the formation of leaf mass and new shoots after rooting.
Top cuttings are the top five to four centimeters of the upper part of the shoot tip. Depending on the plant species, they contain the first two to three leaves or pairs of leaves. If the leaves are shortened, this reduces transpiration and thus the water requirement of the cuttings. On the other hand, the leaves are an important source of carbohydrates, which are needed during the energy-intensive rooting phase. In addition, the risk of infection with fungi is increased by shortening the leaves. Therefore, it should always be considered whether the leaves of the cuttings are really too big and whether shortening makes more sense.
Propagating cuttings: optimal conditions
Taking the cuttings is stressful. It is therefore important that optimal conditions prevail during rooting so thatthe cut plant parts grow into independent plants. We give a guide for the optimal conditions during the rooting phase:
- Do not store cuttings
Store the cuttings as short as possible. The longer the storage lasts, the harder the rooting becomes. The breakdown of carbohydrates and other unfavorable influences reduce the rooting success if the cuttings are stored for a long time.
- Procedure if storage is required
If the cuttings are to be stored, it is best to do this in the refrigerator. Moisten the cuttings beforehand and wrap them in a perforated plastic bag. This allows gases produced by the cuttings to still circulate.
- Cuttings directly in substrate
It is better to put the cuttings directly in the substrate than in a glass of water. In a glass of water, the cuttings first develop special water roots. However, these are of no use when stuck in the substrate, as they are much less fine and branched and can therefore absorb neither water nor nutrients from the soil and substrate.
- The right substrate
Special substrates for propagating cuttings are available from specialist retailers. These are very permeable to water and therefore do not tend to waterlogging. Furthermore, in addition to the good air balance, the lack of nutrients in these substrates has a positive effect on root formation. A special growing substrate such as our Plantura organic herb and seed soil is best suited.
- Water well after inserting
If the cuttings are stuck in the substrate, they should be watered well. It is best to use low-s alt water for this; if available, preferably rainwater.
- Ensure high humidity
The cuttings have a problem: They need water, but don't yet have roots to absorb it. It is therefore necessary to reduce the transpiration - i.e. the evaporation of water - of the cuttings. This can be achieved by increasing the humidity around the cuttings. A mini greenhouse is ideal for this. This also fits on any windowsill.
- Lots of light and warmth
During the rooting phase, the cuttings need a lot of light. Therefore, late spring or early summer is bestTime for the cuttings propagation. Because then there is sufficient natural light and no additional exposure is required. Temperatures around 20 °C are ideal. A slightly higher temperature in the root area also promotes rooting. Special heating mats are available for this.
- Acclimate rooted cuttings
It should be checked regularly whether the first roots can be seen on the cuttings. If this is the case, they should be gradually used and acclimatized to normal environmental conditions. To do this, the lid of the mini greenhouse is gradually lowered longer and longer until the hood ultimately stays down.
- Fertilize cuttings
During the acclimatization, the cuttings are to be supplied with a standard complete nutrient fertilizer for the first time. The substrate for the cuttings is very poor in nutrients and the necessary nutrients must be supplied for the young plants to sprout again.
- Planting Rooted Cuttings
Once the cuttings are well rooted and sprout again, it's time to transplant them into a nutrient-rich substrate and a larger pot. Alternatively, the young plants can now also be planted out in the bed. Regardless of whether it is potted or planted out - it must be watered well afterwards.
Now that you know all about propagating from cuttings, it's time to start propagating your houseplants yourself. Check out this article for our top 10 houseplants for propagation from cuttings.