Plum trees reciprocate regular pruning with he althy growth and lush yields. We'll show you how to do it correctly.

When pruning, the plum tree needs special attention

Due to their natural, rather narrow growth habit, plums (Prunus domestica) require special attention when pruning. This also applies to their subspecies and very close relatives such as plums (Prunus domestica subsp. domestica) or mirabelle plums (Prunus domestica subsp.syriaca). The aim is to raise the plum tree from a rather narrow crown to a full-crowned, wide tree. With the right pruning measures, depending on the age of the plum, this will certainly succeed.

Pruning a plum tree: when is the best time?

As with all trees, the plum can be pruned in both winter and summer.

  • Winter cut
    • January - April
    • Possible down to -5 °C without any problems
    • Encourages growth and branching
  • Summer cut
    • End of June - August
    • Slows down growth and thus counteracts excessive new shoot formation (e.g. after winter pruning) and length growth (shooting through)

A distinction is always made between training pruning, maintenance pruning and rejuvenation pruning, depending on the development of the tree. No matter which pruning measure is involved, one thing applies in principle: Pruning is only ever done on dry days and when no precipitation is expected for at least the next one or two days. Moisture carries the risk of infecting the fresh interfaces with fungal pathogens.

Plum trees can be pruned in winter as well as in summer

Pruning the plum tree

If the plum tree is planted in autumn, then the pruning is only carried out in the following spring (March until the latest before flowering), with spring planting immediately. When pruning, the main thing is to select about four shoots that will later become the main branches. These shoots should be as flat as possible and distributed in all directions. In order for a beautiful crown to develop, the central shoot,which goes up steeply, have no competition. All branches that grow steeply up near the central shoot are cut off. The chosen leaders are now pruned back at least a third to half of their length to an outward-facing bud. This means the cut is made just behind a bud that is not pointing towards the tree but is pointing away. This strong pruning ensures that the buds on the main branches become fruit wood. In the end, all leading branches should be about the same length. All other small branches that grow steeply into the tree interior are cut off. Small branches that tend to grow flat outwards are not cut at first.

Special case: If there are almost no side shoots, then the middle shoot is cut back to about 90 cm and the actual pruning is done next year with the branches that have formed up to that point.

Hard pruning ensures that the buds on the main branches become fruit wood

Pruning young plum trees properly: training pruning

In the following 5 to 8 years, the plum tree is pruned in late winter (February) until shortly before flowering. The aim of the training pruning is to bring the tree into a beautiful shape and let it grow in such a way that later a lot of light can penetrate the crown.

The three most important steps of the training pattern:

  • Step 1: For each leading branch (the flat, omnidirectional branches selected and shortened at planting pruning), select over the next two to three years approximately three side branches pointing outwards. These should not be too close together and should have space in the direction they are growing. All other shoots are partly cut off (if very steep and in competition with the selected side branches) or diverted to younger shoots so that the branch tip runs more horizontally. Deriving means that where a branch forks into two shoots, one of them (the steeper one) is cut off right at the fork.
  • Step 2: The leading branches themselves must not compete with the central drive. If they are very long and pointing upwards, clip them back a little to an outward pointing bud.
  • Step 3: All branches that grow steeply towards the tree trunk and compete with the central shoot are removed. All branches that grow flat out of the tree and do not compete with the central shoot,will remain for now and will be considered again next year.
With the right care you will be rewarded with lush flowers

Summary of pruning young plum trees:

  • Determine and shorten the main shoot
  • Determine the leading drives
  • Shorten the leading shoots except for a side shoot that clearly grows outwards
  • Shorten the side shoot that is growing outwards, except for a lower bud that is also pointing outwards

These products are ideal for trimming your shrubs, hedges and trees:

  • Felco Secateurs: Top-of-the-line manual pruning shears, pruning shears, recommended for all types of pruning. In addition to plastic-coated handles, it has a precision adjustment system for the blade and anvil.
  • Felco Fruit Tree and Pruning Shears: Heavy duty fruit tree and pruning shears with wire cutter, sap groove and micrometer adjustment.
  • Gardena telescopic arm scissors: Practical secateurs for effortlessly cutting tall trees and dense bushes from the ground.
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The newly sprouting branches can ensure a good harvest

The pruning of the plum tree

A radical rejuvenation pruning, where you feel you have to compensate for years of missed pruning by cutting a few strong branches, should be avoided on the plum tree if possible. This causes large cuts and an increased risk of fungal and pest infestation. In this case, it is better to remove only a few branches with a maximum branch diameter of 5 cm. To do this, select a few steep branches from the middle to give the rest of the tree more light and space again. Take it slow, even if you've missed cutting for a few years. From now on, performing a maintenance pruning every year will do more to rejuvenate the tree than a radical pruning.

Important: In the case of thicker branches, first saw onto a stump approx. 15 cm long. Because if the heavy branch breaks off during the cut, the wood tears severely. There is still enough space through the stump for trimming or sawing. Then (regardless of whether the wood is cracked or not), the 15 cm long stump is shortened to a few centimetres. The small stump may not be a visual highlight, but it is important for apotential fungal infection are not immediately affected by the central shoot or the main branch. In addition, new shoots often sprout from stumps and that can't hurt when pruning for regeneration.

The Mirabelle is a subspecies of the plum that is in no way inferior in terms of taste. We introduce you to the Mirabelle plum tree and give tips on cultivation, care and harvest.

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Fruit