The boxwood is actually quite easy to care for. Just a little fertilizer and care is enough to enjoy the evergreen splendor.
The boxwood (Buxus) is basically an uncomplicated ornamental tree. Due to its special features, there are still a few things to consider when caring for it. For its evergreen foliage and very hard, high-quality wood, the boxwood needs a good supply of nutrients from a fertilizer, despite its slow growth. Its water requirements also want to be covered in winter, and regular pruning also guarantees a compact and dense growth habit. Last but not least, it is important to identify possible diseases and pests in the bush and to contain them. How exactly you should proceed with all of this is explained in the following article.
If we give the box the right care, it will thank us with he alth and dark green foliage. There are a few simple rules to follow, which we have put together for you below.
Fertilize boxwood
In general, it is sufficient to fertilize your boxwood twice a year. In the spring, from the start of the growth period in April, nitrogen-rich fertilizers should be used. In autumn you should then use a more potassium-based fertilizer to prepare the box for winter and the cold temperatures. Fertilizers with an organic long-term effect such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer are ideal here. Due to its granular form, it can be easily worked into the soil, provides long-term nutrients and is also completely harmless to humans and animals.
You can find more detailed information on fertilizing your boxwood here in our special article.
Water boxwood
The boxwood can cope with short periods of dryness. However, the drought shouldn't last too long, because boxwood feels best on fresh soil. The many small leaves of a box tree also form a large evaporation surface. The top priority when watering is the above-ground parts of the plantkeep dry, as moisture on the leaves provides breeding ground for some pathogens, and the dense growth of topiary trees makes the foliage less drying. As an evergreen plant, boxwood also needs water in winter.
Cutting boxwood
The image of accurately cut box trees in geometric shapes is so firmly anchored in our heads that we might not recognize a wild specimen in the forest at first glance - the natural habit is so different. The fact that such strict cuts are so popular is probably due to a peculiarity of human perception: regularity pleases our eyes. We look for repeating patterns that help organize our impressions. Our special article will help you if you want to cut your boxwood yourself.
Short overview of pruning boxwood:
- Pruning is done during the growth period from April to September, ideally in dry and cloudy weather
- The device used should be very sharp so as not to crush the leaves and avoid brown edges. Electric or manual hedge trimmers are suitable for the rougher work, there are also special boxwood trimmers for fine-tuning
- A distinction is made between three types of cut: pruning, shaping and care cut
- While the pruning takes place in early spring before new growth and extends into the woody part in order to make fundamental corrections to the shape, the shape cut is corrected more finely from April onwards
- Maintenance cuts can be made every four weeks and get the desired shape, new shoots are shortened
- You can also use cardboard templates and plumb lines for a perfect implementation of geometric shapes
Winter boxwood
The boxwood is hardy, but still needs professional attention and protection in the cold season. As one of the few really evergreen deciduous trees that are native to us, the boxwood delights us all year round with its shiny dark green leaves. The crux of the matter is that it carries out photosynthesis all year round, which means that water also evaporates. This makes the box, whose root growth takes place primarily in the cold season, prone to drying out. Most of the damage that occurs in winter is therefore no damageFrostbite, but drought damage. The box should therefore be watered regularly in frost-free weather.
Box trees rooted in the garden soil are protected from frost by the ground like a buffer. But many box trees live in pots - a winter coat made of fleece and jute is advisable for them, because the roots tend to grow extensively along the outermost edge of the planter, where they would otherwise be defenseless against large temperature fluctuations. In addition, you can cover the open potting soil with fir branches and protect the pot from direct cold from below by placing an insulating layer of wooden boards underneath. If there is an inner and outer pot, a bed of wood shavings can be built between the two. Having your own “winter quarters” can also help with hibernation: water loss is reduced in a shady and wind-protected outdoor location.
Boxwood: Common diseases and pests
The most feared boxwood diseases and pests are those that were introduced relatively recently. With proper care, you can often prevent infestation and thus minimize the use of pesticides.
The box tree moth (Cydalima perspectalis) is the most prominent pest. It comes from China, eats entire hedges undetected and was spurned as a meal by the local fauna until a few years ago. In the meantime, however, it can be observed that sparrows in particular are specifically looking for the small green caterpillars and thus keep the danger at bay. Prevention is the best way to control the moth. Regular visual checks from mid-March help to stop the moth with the short reproduction cycle from reproducing in the early stages. Several biological pesticides are available for this purpose. For successful control of the box tree moth, we recommend our Plantura Zünslerfrei XenTari®, a biological spray that is not harmful to bees and is gentle on beneficial insects. You can find more information on combating the box tree moth here.
The box tree dieback (Cylindrocladium buxicola) is an aggressive fungus that has been killing off entire stocks of box trees in Central Europe since 2004. Orange to brown-black spots on the leaves and black stripes on theShoots announce the impending total leaf fall. A fungicide called tebuconazole works against the fungus, but is also harmful to many beneficial insects. There are no effective biological and natural home remedies - with one exception: treatment with algae lime has been showing success for some time. However, preventive care remains the most important measure: It is important to start with the choice of a robust variety and a wind-exposed, light location. The foliage should not be wetted when watering and pruning measures should only be carried out when the leaves are dry. You can read more about dieback and combating it here.