Grasses usually dry up in winter. Here is a selection of hardy grasses that will sprout again next spring with the right care.

In addition to the heart-shaped, oval or rounded foliage of smaller or larger perennials, the long lanceolate leaves of grasses (Poales) form an interesting contrast. If they are not cut back in autumn, grasses can provide a stage for impressive natural spectacles. After all, who doesn't like looking at the hoarfrost on the long stalks and fruiting bodies when the winter sun shines on them? And last but not least, some grasses - such as the lamp cleaner grasses (Pennisetum) - are particularly attractive in winter with their sometimes strikingly beautiful infructescence. Planting a selection of hardy grasses in your garden is always worthwhile.
Hardy grasses: particularly hardy species and varieties
When you think of heavy duty grasses, Carex and Luzula may first come to mind. In fact, these two representatives are very robust and can be found in many private gardens. In addition to the practical component, one advantage lies in the color variety of the straws. The following grasses can hopefully offer you new ideas and design options:
- Carex morrowii ˈVariegataˈ
The robust ornamental grass impresses with its dark green leaves on the inside, which are surrounded by narrow, contrasting and whitish Edges are hemmed. It grows nicely compact and small (up to 30 cm high). - Carex morrowii ˈAureovariegataˈ
This grass is particularly similar to its close relative ˈVariegatataˈ, but the narrow leaf edges are golden yellow.

- Luzula nivea
Also known as Snow Marbel, this grass shines with delicate, deep green leaves. In the summer, we are particularly pleased with its pretty, white puffballs. - Luzula sylvatica
This is a native wild species that is characterized by its typically shiny leaves. The Forest Marbel, howit is also called, grows very well even in dry, shady locations.

Hardy grasses: as a privacy screen
When you hear the word "privacy protection" you usually think of green strips of hedges or brick buildings. However, it is easy to forget that grass species also reach such heights and densities. Even in winter, the grasses - albeit dried up - can protect you from prying eyes. In the spring, however, they have to be cut back, so that year after year there is a period without protective grass. Luckily, the grasses quickly return to their original heights. Anyone who wants to move away from the usual beech (Fagus) or cherry laurel hedge (Prunus laurocerasus) as a privacy screen and try something new should therefore check out the following ornamental grasses be sure to write them down and maybe even put these ideas into practice in your own garden:
- Reedgrass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora)
This plant is a stately one , upright growing ornamental grass. It can be used at the edges of beds and act as an attractive privacy screen. Due to its infructescence, it also has a high ornamental value in winter. It is particularly suitable for sunny locations, reaches a height of up to 130 cm and is in full bloom in July and August. - Reed (Arundo donax)
Originally the reed cane comes from Southern Europe. Although it rarely blooms in our region, it reaches an unbeatable height of up to 3 meters. It is advisable to plant the individual pole tubes offset because of their size. Accordingly, you should plan enough space.

- Silverfeather (Miscanthus sinensis ˈSilverfeatherˈ )Chinese reed is particularly attractive near water or in connection with the surrounding architecture. Due to its size (up to 2 meters), it can also protect against prying eyes. The panicles of flowers often remain until winter and have a high ornamental value.
- Miscanthus giganteus
Another large representative of the Chinese ornamental grasses is Miscanthus giganteus. This does not form any spurs that could affect nearby flower beds and lawns, and has a high opacity in the winter months. The ideal location is enough herefrom sunny to semi-shady. If the ornamental grass feels good, it grows about 3 meters in height.

Hardy grasses for the bucket
Certain grasses can look extremely attractive in containers - in company or even individually. Of course, you should always make sure that the pot size is sufficient, as large-growing plants in small pots can never exploit their potential and quickly lose their decorative value. The size of the pot should be about two to three times the size of the plant's root ball. The bucket is also well protected from the winter cold by placing it near a house wall or wrapping it with fleece. This prevents the rhizome from freezing and ensures the survival of the plant. In this context, frost resistance should be considered when selecting plants, because every plant has its home in different areas with different weather conditions and there are also very different frost zones in Germany. For you as a gardener, this means that you have to provide thicker winter protection in Bavaria than in Hamburg, as the frost temperatures can last longer here. The following ornamental grasses are suitable for the bucket in the garden or in the conservatory:
- Blue Fescue (Festuca cinerea)
The grass with the blue-grey foliage forms beautiful hemispherical clumps. It is not sensitive to drought and reaches a height of about 15 cm. - Bearskin Fescue (Festuca gautieri)
The evergreen pads of the bearskin fescue consists of fresh green, needle-shaped leaves. They are so dense that they resemble a bear's pelt.

- Real Sheep Fescue (Festuca ovina)
The real one Sheep's fescue forms beautiful hemispherical clumps with its grey-blue leaves. Green-yellow flowers from May to July. - Blue Iris (Koeleria glauca)
This grey-green grass is also native to Europe. With its inflorescences, the blue iridescent grass can reach heights of up to 40 cm outdoors, but it usually stays a little smaller in pot culture. - Tender Feather Grass (Stipa tenuissima)
Tender Feather Grass draws As the name suggests, its leaves are very delicate and soft. Beautiful silver to white flowers can be seen from June to July.

Hardy grasses: caring for & cutting properly
Caring for ornamental grasses is usually not particularly complicated. Most of the ornamental grass species prefer a nutrient-rich and humus-rich soil. Representatives such as Calamagrostis or Miscanthus thrive in the sun, whereas Carex thrives in the shade. Overall, however, the tolerance to light conditions is very good and sometimes shady grasses can also grow in sunnier locations.
But be careful: At low temperatures, ground frost can occur, which makes it difficult to absorb water. In strong sunlight, the plant loses a lot of water, but can draw little to no water from the soil. It is therefore advisable not to place hardy plants in full sun.

Water & Fertilizer
Ornamental grasses also have an above-average tolerance to drought, which is why regular watering is not necessary, except in very long dry periods. The nutrient requirements of the small to medium-sized grasses are very limited. It is sufficient to add some compost to these bed sections in the spring, so that the soil life ensures a small but long-term supply by decomposing the compost. In the case of large grasses, which are also ideal as privacy screens, you can also do without the addition of liquid fertilizers because there is a risk that the already large stalks will become even larger and thus more unstable and eventually snap off. The cutting measures for wintergreen grasses are limited to removing dead leaves and inflorescences. You should remove the latter to avoid uncontrolled spreading to other beds.

Care for grasses in tubs
By observing the following points you ensure an all-round carefree package for every ornamental grass in the pot:
- Sufficient drainage in the form of potsherds or clay beads on the bottom of the bucket
- Use nutrient-rich but not too heavy substrate
- Regular watering prevents the root ball from drying out
- Regular repotting keeps the plant and the soil life in the pot he althy and ensures vitality and willingness to bloom
Cuttingof hardy ornamental grasses
Pruning measures for ornamental grasses are limited to cleaning out the brown and withered parts of the plant and cutting back heavily in spring. This guarantees that the grasses can sprout again optimally and form a new, vital clump.
We have compiled more hardy plants for you here.