Composting correctly: What can go on the compost?

• Compost correctly
• How does composting work?
• What goes in the compost?
• Which compost is the best?
• Small composters for balconies and apartments
• The right location for composters
• Correct composting: tips for successful rotting
• Create compost
• Fill the composter correctly: Six golden rules for layering
• How long does the compost take?
• Sifting Compost

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You want to compost properly at home and want to know how to make compost yourself? We will explain exactly how this works and how to fill your composter correctly.

Real compost is a compilation (Latin compositum ="the combined") of various raw materials. The path from waste to valuable soil conditioner is not only wonderful and practical, but also mysterious: the processes that lead to the formation of new humus after rotting have still not been fully unraveled. However, humans have been taking advantage of the special properties of humus for centuries by allowing organic material to rot and transform in compost heaps. Nevertheless, many gardeners still ask themselves the question: What can be put on the compost? And how does that work: compost properly?

Compost correctly

In this article you will also learn everything you need to know to compost properly in the compost heap or composter. The necessary tools range from choosing the right composter to knowledge of the microorganisms involved and deciding when a compost is ready for use. But first, let's start in general terms.

How does composting work?

During composting, organic materials are converted into new humus by billions of tiny and tiny organisms. The first step is decomposition, which proceeds quite turbulently: due to the increased activity of the microorganisms trying to get to the nutrients inside, the environment is noticeably warmed up. This phase is called the "main composting" or "intensive composting" - the result is the so-called fresh compost.

After a few weeks of decomposition, the "post-rotting" phase follows. Substances that arose during the main rotting process are now being re-linked to form large biomolecules. These biomolecules are the humic acids that later give the compost its special properties. HerThe structure is extremely variable, which is why no scientist has yet been able to develop a universal model of such a humic acid. The new humus molecules are relatively stable - much more stable and less susceptible to degradation than the product of the main compost. The compost is now called “ready compost”. Up to this point, composting has taken at least five months under the best conditions. If the composting is still not completed, the so-called mature compost is created. Many a patient gardener swears by the extremely soil-improving properties of mature compost that is two to three years old. Anyone who has reached this level of rotting quickly has really done everything right when composting.

Tip: The "stability" of compost means that it can no longer be easily broken down by microorganisms in the soil. Since it consists largely of carbon, this would be possible: soil organisms would be only too happy to use this carbon to feed themselves and continue to reproduce. The rule of thumb is therefore: the more nitrogen the compost still contains, the more unstable it is. For this reason, the question of what can go on the compost is also crucial, because the balance of carbon and nitrogen is also important for the rotting material.

Hot and cold gang

You can compost properly in several ways and compost can be created in two different processes: in the cold or in the hot rotting. Cold rotting always occurs in private gardens: when a compost heap is gradually piled up, the rotting processes do not all take place at the same time, but one after the other, layer by layer.

The top layer in each case develops the most heat as a result of the decomposition processes, but loses it quickly to the environment because it is not insulated. Therefore, there are not particularly high temperatures and pathogens and weed seeds unfortunately survive the rotting without any problems. For this reason, when composting in your private garden, you should make sure that no pathogens or seed-bearing plants get onto the compost.

Tip: If composting is carried out professionally at recycling centers and in composting plants, a whole heap is always prepared for the hot rotting at once. As a result, the intensive rotting and the self-isolation of the heap result in high temperatures of 50 to 80 °C, which hardly any pathogens or weed seeds survive.

Composting Summary:

• Composting converts organic materials into compost or humus.
• The decomposition phase is called main rotting, the build-up phase is called post-rotting.
• The product of the main compost is the fresh compost, which is nutrient-rich and unstable.
• The product of post-rotting is finished compost or mature compost, which is less nutrient-rich but much more stable.
• In the vast majority of cases, composting in the private garden takes place in the cold compost.
• Pathogens and weed seeds are not killed in the cold rotting - therefore the material to be composted should not come from diseased plants or carry unwanted seeds.
• Regarding the question "What can go on the compost" you will find an informative list directly below.

You can read more about the properties and uses of the different types of compost in this special article.

What goes in the compost?

For the sake of simplicity, you will find a table below in which the most important suitable waste is listed and compared to the unsuitable materials. Basically, shredded material is composted faster. It can therefore be worth chopping branches and hedges.

Suitable kitchen waste	Suitable garden waste	Unsuitable Waste
Fruit and Vegetable Leftovers	Lawn/green cuttings	Glass
Coffee and tea leftovers	Leaves	Metals
Meatless Leftovers	Hedge/branch trimming	Root weeds
Citrus peel and bananas (to a lesser extent	Seed weeds without seeds, sawdust and wood shavings	Leftovers, bones, large amounts of dairy products
Pure Wood Ash	Plant residues such as Perennial clippings or crop residues	Raw Egg Shells
Boiled Egg Shells	Roots and soil from old planters	Vacuum Cleaner Content

In our article on the most common mistakes in composting, we explain what must not end up in the compost.

Which compost is the best?

Before you start composting, you have to choose a suitable composter. We provide you with some models and concepts for thisin front. Which composter is the most suitable for you always depends on the amount of compost and the space available to you.

Compost heap

You can create a compost heap - also known as a compost heap - in a sheltered, partially shaded location and on he althy garden soil. It's basically a heap that gets a little bigger layer by layer. In order to ensure sufficient ventilation, it should have the following dimensions:

Width	1.2m - 2.5m
Height	0.8m - 1.5m
Length	any

You can also create this windrow in a frame made of metal, wood or plastic. Of course, these should be open at the bottom to let in microorganisms from the soil. The enclosure should also have a sufficient number of slits or air holes to ensure ventilation. In any case, a two-chamber or two-pile system is useful. You can use one space to collect material that you do not yet want to compost due to the optimal mixing, or use the second chamber when turning. In any case, think about covering the pile, for example with straw or mulch film. The compost heap generally requires a little more space than a composter and, in its simplest form - as a simple heap - is probably the cheapest option for composting even large amounts of waste. For those who love the flair of old farms, renting is probably the only true way to compost properly.

Quick Composter

Quick Composters are basically open-bottom boxes with ventilation slots, a flap for loading and one for removing finished compost. They are designed to optimize moisture and temperature for microorganisms and enable smaller amounts of waste to be composted properly by holding the material together. However, because mixing and rearranging are difficult or even impossible in such a container, the most diverse materials must be well layered from the outset when operating a high-speed composter. Also, the compost must not be compacted under any circumstances, in order to avoid a lack of oxygen inside. Most quick composters are dark colored so that they heat up faster. When choosing one, make sure you have adequate ventilation and a practical removal flap. The space requirement ofDepending on the volume, quick composters are usually limited to about one square meter of soil. The commercially available capacities are between 300 and 1600 liters.

Thermocomposter

The thermal composters are a special form of the quick composter described above and only add good thermal insulation to them. This ensures a constant temperature that is as high as possible inside the compost bin. Thermal composters are therefore an optimization of the quick composters, because they can also be used to compost a small amount of material. Their size is slightly larger than that of the quick composters because of the insulation, and they are usually more expensive. The available capacities are between 180 and 900 liters.

Roller composter

Rolling composters are a relatively new idea. A rollable container - usually made of plastic - has the great advantage that you can easily move it to where the compost is produced. For stationary storage, a frame is usually part of the roll composter, in which it is also rotatably mounted. Rolling around also mixes and aerates the material inside, eliminating layering and turning. The disadvantage is the often low capacity of 70 to 180 liters. If necessary, this can be solved by purchasing several rolling composters.

Small composters for balconies and apartments

Even on the smallest scale and without a garden, composting or the recycling of compost is possible. With the worm box and the bokashi bucket, we would like to introduce you to two working options for this. Handing over the product from Bokashi or Wurmkiste if you happen to have a surplus is unlikely to be a problem at all: Surely someone in your circle of acquaintances would be happy about some organic fertilizer.

Bokashi

In this composting trend from Japan, there is actually no composting at all, but fermentation. With a Bokashi bucket you not only have an organic liquid fertilizer in a very short time, but also an organic fertilizer for potted plants or beds after two to six weeks (depending on the conditions). Basically, the material has been “pre-digested”, and subsequent decomposition takes place very quickly. Unlike composting, fermentation takes place under absolute exclusion of air and is carried out by lactic acid bacteria, which are added specifically for this purposewill. Incidentally, the same bacteria produce the delicious sauerkraut from white cabbage. You can read about the function and use of Bokashi buckets in detail in our Bokashi special article. A Bokashi bucket takes up just as much space as a standard organic waste bin and has a capacity of 15 to 20 liters.

worm box

A worm box uses the incredible abilities of various relatives of the earthworm to achieve odor-free composting indoors as well. Here is an example of worm boxes that you can purchase. In the meantime, however, there are also many instructions for do-it-yourself construction on the Internet. The principle behind the worm boxes is simple: hundreds of worms live in a well-ventilated container and feed on the organic waste that you feed them. Worm boxes are always divided into at least two chambers. When a chamber is filled with composted material, the worms move through slits or holes to the next area where there is fresh food for them. They multiply in the box and usually only have to be purchased once. Users of worm boxes often report that there is a strange odor initially, but with good ventilation and use for a period of time this disappears. The worm boxes can be set up at 15 to 25 °C, so that there should be a place in every apartment. Available capacities start at around 70 liters and are expandable on some models. Because compost worms eat a lot, but not everything, it is important to ask yourself the question in advance: What is allowed on the compost heap?

By the way: As mentioned above, a compost heap that has been put on all at once can heat up considerably in the hot composting - to 50 to 80 °C. The bio-meiler, also called “compost heating”, takes advantage of this effect. Water pipes are laid through the heap, constantly removing heat from the heap. The warm water can be stored in insulated tanks and used later. In this way it is possible to use a compost heap for heating and the hot water system. However, as I said, this requires a hot gang and this is only limited to a few weeks. It is therefore only worthwhile having your own compost heating system if extremely large quantities of compostable material are produced.

Summary: Which composter is the best?

• Composting in windrows is cheap, but takes up a lot of space; to allow adequate ventilation, the heap should not be too wide or too high
• Quick and thermal composters are suitable for quickly composting smaller amounts of waste and are space-saving, but must be filled carefully in layers
• Rolling composters do not need to be stacked or moved, but have a very limited capacity
• Strictly speaking, fermentation takes place in the Bokashi bucket, but useful plant fertilizers are also produced from waste; they are the size of compost bins
• The worm box uses the properties of dung worms and composts kitchen waste on the surface of a stool

The right location for composters

In order to ensure temperatures that are as mild and constant as possible, you should also consider a few things when choosing a location. A semi-shady location is optimal to ensure sufficient, but not excessive, heating. If the location is sheltered, the compost can hold the temperature longer. Humidity regulation is also easiest at such a location. Under the compost there should also be he althy garden soil that has been broken up if possible. In this way, the living beings involved in the composting can enter the compost and, after completing their task, also migrate away again. If you want to operate a compost heap, you should pay attention to the later width of the heap: A heap about 150 cm high should be about 250 cm wide at the base to ensure sufficient ventilation. You can read below why the factors mentioned above are important for correct composting.

Compost Location Summary:

• The location should be partially shaded and protected
• A he althy and loose garden soil allows microorganisms to migrate
• Note the size of the finished windrow or the space you may need for sorting or moving

Correct composting: tips for successful rotting

The processes taking place in the heap are carried out by microorganisms. In order to promote and perhaps even accelerate the rotting, it is necessary to optimize their living conditions. You can tackle these with a few adjustment screws:

Moisture in the composter

The bacteria and fungi involved in rottingrequire a sufficiently humid environment. This is achieved by a partially shaded location, covering the compost or using a composter. Water a compost pile during hot, dry periods.

Temperature in the composter

High temperatures allow the microorganisms to reach their peak and the rotting process is accelerated. The thermal or quick composters are based on this principle. Insulating and covering the compost can also go a long way, as can a sheltered location that gets some sun occasionally.

Oxygen in the composter

The microorganisms involved are aerobic, meaning they need oxygen to breathe. A compost heap that is too dense or too wet will make it difficult for them to work or even kill them. The use of sufficiently coarse, structurally stable material and frequent repositioning, on the other hand, ensure a good supply of the important breathing air. If the oxygen supply is insufficient, anaerobic (i.e. non-air-breathing) microorganisms multiply. The products of their activity are, for example, unpleasant-smelling sulfur or methane compounds. So if your compost smells bad, you should aerate it, for example by turning.

Nutrients in the composter

In order to reproduce and be active, the microorganisms not only need a substrate rich in carbon, but also one that contains nutrients. In order to be sufficiently supplied with nitrogen, it can therefore make sense to mix in some nitrogen fertilizer. However, if there is sufficient nutrient-rich material - i.e. material with a low C/N ratio - this is not necessary. A colorful mixture of different materials represents an optimal nutrient medium. The C/N ratio indicates the relationship between carbon (C) and nitrogen (N) in a material. Materials with a low C/N ratio (e.g. liquid manure, C:N=5:1) are quickly decomposed, but little humus is produced afterwards. Materials with a high C/N ratio (such as wood chips, C:N=120:1) are decomposed very slowly and the microorganisms even extract nitrogen from the environment to do this. Also to influence this, it is important to know what is allowed on the compost.

pH value in the composter

The activity ofMicroorganisms increase as pH increases - at least up to a point. Conversely, their activity is inhibited at low pH values. If a lot of "acidic" material (such as lawn clippings and leaves) ends up on the compost, you should powder it with a little lime. Algae lime, for example, is well suited.

Create compost

In the past, layering the compost was considered an indispensable condition for successful composting. You will find, however, that you have more than one option.

Create compost correctly: move layers or compost?

Turning the compost material should improve the living conditions of the unseen working microorganisms by introducing oxygen and mixing the material.

Basically you have two options: You can build up your compost in perfect layers - or turn it over regularly. If you pile up your compost conscientiously and with sufficiently coarse material in such a way that there is no stagnant water, oxygen-poor zones or otherwise suboptimal rotting conditions, you can save yourself turning it over. Quick composters and thermal composters require this because they are difficult to mix. However, this requires the careful sorting of all compostable waste. If you don't like this regular discipline, you can also pile up a compost more carelessly, but you should then keep an eye on possible rot or dry spots. In this case, rearranging is a must once a year and if you notice a slow rotting and stench, you should also soon reach for the fork and sweep the bottom up and the inside out. Take this opportunity to wet any dry material and remove the putrid areas. If you operate a rolling composter, there is of course no need to mix the waste - you should only move the container regularly if there is less rolling around. It is also better to think about what can go on the compost in advance so that the wrong rotting material such as dairy products or meat does not lead to rotting.

Summary: Creating compost correctly - layering or turning?

• Turning should bring oxygen into the rotting material and thus promote the turning
• If you layer your compost very carefully and airy, turning is not necessary
• Not quite like thatcareful sorting of the rotting material, once a year or as needed, it needs to be moved
• A wheeled composter eliminates both turning and layering when moved occasionally

Fill the composter correctly: Six golden rules for layering

1. Sawdust, bark mulch or wood chips belong at the bottom of the compost
2. Structurally stable material (e.g. branch cuttings, solid, dry perennial cuttings, leaves) and softer waste from the kitchen and garden are alternately layered on top of this
3. Between the layers you can spread a very thin layer of lime or nitrogen fertilizer if necessary
4. If you use other compost soil for inoculation, you can also bring in a layer of this occasionally
5. Material that is too dry should be moistened and material that is too wet should be dried before composting
6. If you operate an open compost heap, it is finally covered with a thick layer of straw, hay, leaves or climbing plants

How long does the compost take?

If you create the compost correctly, it will go through different stages: the fresh compost at the beginning becomes finished compost and finally mature compost. Fresh compost is ready for use after about four to eight weeks, finished compost after five to six months. Prolonged composting does not damage the end product either, the newly built humus compounds become more resistant to degradation and act more and more as a soil conditioner the older they get. Basically, the following applies: The more nutritious the starting material was, the faster composting takes place and the lower the yield of stable "permanent humus".

When will the compost be ready?

The times stated above are of course guide values: Depending on the working conditions of the microorganisms, the rotting time can change. It is best to trust what you can see, smell and feel: When your waste has turned into a fragrant, fragrant, crumbly material that is reminiscent of forest floor and whose origins can hardly be seen - then you can look forward to a successful one Congratulate Compost!

Summary: How long does the compost take?

• All times are only guide values, the rotting times change depending on the living conditions of the microorganisms involved
• A fresh compost can be used after four to eight weeks
• OnFinished compost can be used after five to six months; it is then crumbly, smells pleasant and the starting materials are hardly recognizable
• The longer a finished compost is composted, the more likely it is to become a very stable, low-nutrient compost that is ideal for soil improvement
• Compost is ready when it smells good, is dark and crumbly and you can no longer identify the starting materials

Speed up compost

Compost starters or compost accelerators and even compost worms are offered to optimize composting. You don't need all these additives if you put a well-mixed compost on a piece of he althy soil. All microorganisms and worms get into your compost from below and multiply there. Nitrogen or lime, such as those found in compost accelerators, are only necessary to a limited extent, as you can see above (in the “Promoting composting” section). If you are setting up a completely new compost, a simple trick can help you: If you can, inoculate your new pile with mature compost from another compost owner at the beginning. This provides a basic stock of microorganisms that can continue to multiply. The next compost is then always inoculated with the previous one. If you set up your new compost under the most unfavorable conditions (poor subsoil, no compost available for inoculation), you can of course ultimately fall back on the compost worms and compost starters offered. You can also find everything about worm composting in our special article on compost worms. If composting is to be quick, optimizing the living conditions of the microorganisms involved is of course the most effective approach.

Speed up compost summary:

• If you pile up your compost on a he althy soil in a varied way, mix it up and adjust the conditions according to the needs of the working organisms, you don't need any other tools
• Inoculating a new compost with finished compost from another pile is an effective trick to get the rotting process started quickly
• If the conditions are too bad, the use of compost starters or accelerators is of no use - but if there is only a lack of compost for seeding, there is nothing against using such products

Sifting Compost

AtSieving of the compost is common for fresh and finished compost. Here, coarse, undecomposed material is separated from finished compost. Fresh compost is generally sieved more coarsely than finished compost, because it still contains many coarse pieces that are further broken down in the bed. Mature compost does not necessarily have to be sieved, in this rotting stage none of the original organic structures should be left. Compost used to mix potting soil should be extra fine. The corresponding mesh sizes for further use can be found in the following table.

Usage	Mesh size of the sieve
Mulching of surfaces	20 - 30 mm
Soil improvement with finished/matured compost	5 - 20mm
Annual care with finished/mature compost	5 - 20mm
Component of potting soil	<15 mm

Tip: Compost produced at recycling centers is either freed from germinable seeds and pathogens by the hot rotting process or has been sterilized by treatment with hot steam. Since your private compost carries the risk of spreading diseases and seed weeds in the garden due to the cold rotting process, sterilization can also be an option for you. Small amounts of compost can be sanitized in about 20 minutes in a 200°C oven. This is useful if you want to use your compost in pots indoors or for growing sensitive plants. However, keep in mind that sterilization will also kill any beneficial soil dwellers that helped you compost properly and continue to perform important functions in the soil. Therefore, only sterilize if you consider it absolutely necessary.

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