To ensure that your geraniums survive the first frost, we have summarized everything you need to know about overwintering, cutting and caring for them.
When the first frost sets in, many geraniums (Pelargonium) end up in the compost after a blooming summer season. The geraniums can be brought through the winter without much effort.
By the way, the term "geranium" is actually an unfavorable trivial name, since there is a genus called Geranium, to which the pelargonium does not belong (anymore). Most wild pelargonium (or popularly known as geranium) species are at home in the warm climes of South Africa. So it's not really surprising that the actually perennial plants die when the winter temperatures are below zero, instead of experiencing a second spring. With a little preparation and the right winter quarters, however, you can help your favorite geraniums through the winter without much effort. Here you can find out how geraniums survive the cold season without any problems, so that your most beautiful specimens can also amaze your neighbors in the next flowering phase.
Overwintering geraniums: the right time
Geraniums (if protected) also tolerate light frost down to about - 5°C. However, the plants should have moved to their winter quarters before the first severe frost. This is usually the end of October. If you want to be on the safe side, take your seedlings to a sheltered place in September or early October.
Note: If the first frost hits you unexpectedly: Plants that only freeze the leaves and not the stems will sprout again the next year without any problems.
Winter geraniums: preparation and pruning
In order to help your geraniums through the dark and cold winter as best as possible, a few preparations are required. The plants are removed from their flower box, bed, etc. and the loose soil is carefully tapped off. As many fine roots as possible should remain intact. All shoots are then trimmed to a length of about 10 cm, so that there are two to three knots per shootleft over. However, do not cut back into the woody part of the shoots. To avoid disease and to minimize evaporation, the leaves of the geranium are removed.
What's left of your once beautifully flowering geraniums will be transplanted into matching pots or bags. The roots are covered with a mixture of sand and potting soil. Even if your once-imposing eye-catchers may now be looking a bit battered, don't worry because new floriferous shoots will sprout next year.
Preparation and editing summary:
- Remove plants from container and carefully remove soil from roots
- Shorten the unwoody part of the shoots to approx. 10 cm
- Remove Sheets
- Cover the roots with sand and potting soil in a pot or bag
Tip: If necessary, you can take cuttings from the removed shoots and use them to propagate your geranium. You can find out how best to do this in our special article.
Overwintering geraniums: location and care
Now it's time to find a suitable place for the plants. A dark and cool place like a basement is ideal for bringing the plants through the winter. Here the geranium is protected from direct sunlight or light. This prevents the plants from starting to sprout again too early and suffering from a lack of water.
Optionally, a bright place with about five to ten degrees Celsius (e.g. a conservatory or a bright stairwell) can serve as winter quarters.
Another possibility is to spend the winter in heated places such as the living room window sill. In this pleasant warmth, the geranium will sprout again. If there are too many shoots, some of the new shoots will be cut off. As a result, more side shoots are formed and the plant grows bushier and more compact. In addition, the formation of flower buds is promoted. However, some geranium species, especially Pelargonium grandiflorum hybrids, require a cold period of up to six weeks for flowering.
During the winter, the geranium is kept rather dry and watered only occasionally. Fertilization is not necessary.
Summary of location and maintenance:
- ideal location: dark and cool (e.g. in the basement)
- watering occasionally; rather keep dry
- no fertilization
Overwintering geraniums: spring pruning after overwintering
In February or early March, the dark hibernating geraniums are carefully awakened from their hibernation by placing them on the windowsill and watering them more heavily. Here the plants can slowly acclimatize. To give the late risers the best possible start to the new season, they can be repotted in new substrate.
There is also a spring cut. Horny shoots may have formed during the winter in the cellar. This is usually a sign that the storage was either too warm and dark or too light but cool. These elongated, thin shoots are removed as they will not produce flowers.
If new shoots have formed in the sunny winter quarters, these are also shortened. This will result in beautiful bushy new shoots later.
When pruned, dry stems that are black on the inside may appear. Even if it seems as if the plant did not survive the winter successfully, there is hope. It is possible that the root will still sprout again. All old wood is cut off and the root planted in new soil.
Summary of spring pruning after overwintering:
- Acclimatization: February/ early March from the winter quarters onto the window sill or similar and pour more heavily
- Spring pruning: remove horny shoots, possibly shorten new shoots
- From mid-May the plants can go outside again
Depending on the weather (there should be no longer any danger of frost), the plants can go back outside in mid-May. You can find out how to find the best location for geraniums after winter in this article. And if you are interested in geranium care in general, you can read on here.
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