There are both hanging and standing petunia varieties. We show where and how to best plant petunias and what you should consider when caring for the flowers.
No matter whether hanging petunias in hanging baskets or standing in balcony boxes - petunias (Petunia) with their large, cup-shaped flowers that shine in a wide variety of colors should not be missing on any balcony . There are 16 species in total, most of which come from South America. This is where its name comes from: the botanical name Petunia is derived from Petun, the Brazilian native word for tobacco. In fact, petunias are very closely related to tobacco and, like tobacco, belong to the nightshade family (Solanaceae). Garden petunia (Petunia × hybrida) is a hybrid produced from several species of the genus. The flowers range in color from white to red, purple and yellow. So there is something for every taste. In order to get the most out of your petunias, there are just a few simple steps to take care of when caring for these frugal flowering wonders. Here you can find out exactly what needs to be considered when growing and caring for petunias.
Planting petunias: the right location
As a true South American, the petunia prefers a location in full sun. But the heat-resistant plants also thrive well in semi-shade. However, not quite as many flowers are formed there as in the blazing sun. A spot protected from wind and rain is also ideal. For example, your plants will thrive on a beautiful, sunny balcony as if they had never left their homeland.
The right soil for petunias
A well-drained soil should be used to avoid waterlogging. Petunias prefer a soil rich in nutrients. When planting, a rich compost or potting soil can be used. Unfortunately, petunias often suffer from iron deficiency. This can be recognized by discolored leaves with green leaf veins. This characteristic discoloration sets in on the younger leaves firsta. There is special petunia soil in specialist shops that counteracts iron deficiency. This soil has a low pH value, which counteracts the increase in pH caused by water that is too hard. Hard water is high in minerals that cause the soil pH to rise. However, iron in the soil is most available to plants at a pH of 4.5. It is also recommended to use a slow-release fertilizer when planting.
Petunias"plant in a pot
Petunias can be traditionally planted in balcony boxes. Here or in hanging baskets, hanging petunia varieties with their long, flowering shoots come into their own. Upright petunias are particularly suitable for planting out in the garden. But some hanging varieties can also be planted in the bed as ground cover. When planting in a plant pot, this should be about 3 cm larger than the root ball. A drainage layer at the bottom should ensure good water drainage.
Because of their long shoots, hanging petunias need a little more space than the upright varieties. It is best to place the plants in the ground only up to the upper edge of the roots. This should be watered well after planting so that the plants feel comfortable right away and have enough water available. When filling the soil, cavities are removed by gently pressing. It is important to do the whole thing very carefully, otherwise the soil can easily become too compacted and this can make root growth and water drainage more difficult. If several petunias are planted next to each other, a minimum distance of approx. 30 cm should be maintained between the plants.
The right planting time for petunias
Petunias are insensitive to light frost, but as sun-kissed South Americans, they easily get cold feet in our regions in spring. You should therefore not put the plants outside until mid-May - then your little plants will be safe from frost.
Growing Petunias Summary:
- Location: sun to semi-shade
- Protected from rain and wind
- Porous, rich soil
- Petunia soil to prevent iron deficiency
- Planter: balcony box, hanging basket, bucket or planting out in the bed
- Planter with good drainage;Drainage at bottom
- Distance between petunia plants at least 30 cm
- Planting out from mid-May (no more risk of frost)
Caring for Petunias
Petunias are very undemanding plants and show that true beauty does not require much care. With the right knowledge, you can ensure that these natural beauties can be seen at their best.
Watering Petunias
Petunias need to be watered regularly because they need a lot of water. However, waterlogging should be avoided as much as possible. So that the leaves and flowers of the plants do not stick together, you should water from below. Soft tap water or rainwater is best suited for this.
Fertilize petunias
In general, it is a good idea to work a primarily organic long-term fertilizer such as our Plantura organic flower fertilizer into the soil when planting. In addition, some compost can be added to the potting soil so that sufficient phosphorus is available for rich flowering. Alternatively, fertilize monthly with organic liquid fertilizer such as our Plantura Organic Flower & Balcony Fertilizer until the plants have started flowering. Thereafter, the fertilization rhythm is increased to every one to two weeks. A phosphate-rich fertilizer can be used to strengthen the plants and flower formation. If you water with hard water, it is best to use an additional iron fertilizer.
Pruning Petunias
Peunias do not need to be pruned per se. However, faded inflorescences should be cleaned regularly. This extends the flowering phase of the plants. If you want to overwinter your petunias, the shoots are cut back radically to about 15 cm before and after overwintering. In our article "Petunias: care and successful wintering" you will find all the details about pruning before and after wintering as well as further details and valuable tips for the right care.
Summary: How to properly care for petunias:
- Water a lot, but avoid waterlogging
- Pour from below
- Use soft tap water or rainwater
- Use of an organic long-term fertilizer (at planting and after 2 months later). Alternatively: fertilize monthly with commercially available liquid fertilizer until flowering is well advanced, then every 1 to 2 weeks
- Strengthening plants withphosphate fertilizer
- Additional fertilization with iron fertilizer
- Clearing out faded inflorescences in summer
- Radical pruning before and after wintering
Propagating Petunias
You can buy new petunias every year or save yourself a few bucks by taking care of the propagation of these colorful balcony dwellers yourself.
Propagating petunias by cuttings
The cuttings are best cut in summer. For this purpose, 10 cm long side shoots are cut off. The leaves are removed (apart from the top pair of leaves). Either place the cuttings in lime-free water until they root, or put them directly into a pot with soaked potting soil. As soon as the cuttings sprout again, enough roots have formed to repot the seedlings into a larger planter. From February, the petunias are acclimatized by being placed outside on frost-free days. Plant out from mid-May when there is no longer any danger of frost.
Summary of propagating petunias:
- Best cut cuttings in summer
- Use 10 cm long shoots
- Remove all leaves except the top pair of leaves
- Place in a glass with lime-free water until roots have formed and then put in pots with soggy potting soil OR plant directly in the pots
- Propagation was successful when the cuttings sprout at the top
- Repot into larger planters & continue cultivating like adult petunias
- Acclimatization of the cuttings before planting in mid-May
Sowing and Propagating Petunia Seeds
The seeds of petunias can easily be harvested by yourself. You can find out exactly how this works in our special article on propagating petunias. If that's too much effort for you or if you simply don't have any petunias yet, you can simply buy the seeds from specialist retailers.
The seeds are sown from February. For this purpose, a seed tray is filled with sterile seed soil. The tiny, black seeds are mixed with dry quartz sand and distributed evenly and with sufficient spacing on the soil. Since petunias germinate in the light, a maximum of a fine layer of soil is spread over the seeds. The temperature should be during germinationDo not fall below 20°C. At lower temperatures, the whole thing takes considerably longer. The soil is kept moist with a water sprayer. Germination takes place under a foil hood in a bright location without direct sunlight. From germination onwards, the film hood must be briefly lifted daily for ventilation. From the formation of two pairs of leaves, the plantlets are pricked out or transplanted individually into small pots. The plantlets need to be acclimatized before moving outside. They are put outside during the day and brought in again in the evening. From mid-May, the plants can finally go outside.
Summary of sowing the seeds:
- Sow from February in a seed tray with sterile seed compost
- Distribute seeds on the ground (caution light germinators!)
- Optimum germination temperature: min. 20 °C
- Keep the soil evenly moist with a water sprayer
- Cover the seed tray with a foil hood (ventilate once a day after germination)
- Bright location without direct sunlight
- From the formation of the 2nd pair of leaves: prick out or transplant individually into small pots
- Acclimatization of the seedlings before planting outside
- Planting outdoors from mid-May (no more risk of frost)
Petunia varieties: hanging and standing petunias
The different varieties are traditionally divided into four groups of varieties, of which 'Grandiflora' and 'Multiflora' are the most important. The petunia varieties not only differ greatly in terms of their growth form. They also vary in their flower shape, color and size. There are varieties with small or large, single or double double flowers, star-shaped, fringed or more rounded petals. We have put together a selection of particularly beautiful petunia varieties for you.
Hanging Petunia Varieties
The hanging specimens are the balcony classic, as their shoots grow wonderfully over the boxes and tubs. They have beautiful, large and usually showy flowers. Some varieties are also available as miniature petunias. They have much smaller leaves and buds, but are the same overall size. Attention: The Nana hybrids of the trailing petunias are very susceptible to rain and wind.
- Night Sky: As the name suggests, this strain's large buds are reminiscent of a star-filled night sky. The violet-blue basic color of the flower is peppered with white spots that resemble sparklingremember stars. No flower is like the other, which makes this strain particularly fascinating for the viewer. It was even awarded the FLEUROSTAR in 2015/2016. Hanging variety with shoots up to 100 cm long.
- Lightning Sky: The buds of this strain have a white eye and a dark crimson star-like border with striking white speckles. Hanging variety with 40 - 60 cm long shoots.
- Viva®: VIVA® petunias are one of the very special varieties with their double-filled flowers. Here double also means double flower power. Despite their large flowers, they are very weather resistant and the variety is available in different color variants. Hanging variety with 120 cm long shoots.
- Chocolina: With its rather small, chocolate-colored flowers, this variety looks good enough to bite into (but please don't snack). It has a bushy, slightly hanging habit with approx. 40 cm long shoots.
- Daybreak: Surrounded by a pink dawn, the yellow eye of the mini petunia 'Daybreak' really comes into its own. It has a hanging habit with shoots up to 60 cm long.
- Pirouette Red: The Pirouette Red is a representative with double-double flowers. The red eye is surrounded by a beautiful white. It grows hanging with 30 - 40 cm long shoots.
- Big Time Blue: Although this variety has a comparatively simple appearance with its dark blue flowers, it is particularly robust and easy to care for. The hanging shoots are about 100 cm long.
- Double Pink, Double White: These are miniature, double-flowered petunias that are all the rage in the US. Not unfounded when you consider that the plants' floriferous shoots can grow to over a meter long.
- Burgundy Star Wave: The flowers of this trailing petunia are an intense burgundy red with star-shaped white stripes radiating from the centre. The hanging petunia reaches a shoot length of 80 cm.
- Chameleon Double Pink Yellow: This hanging mini petunia changes flower color depending on the season. The spectrum ranges from yellow through red to orange. The plant forms hanging shoots of 40 - 60 cm.
Upstanding Petunias
The standing petunias are rather small plants, but they bloom wonderfully and in many different colours. They grow upright as a small bush and are suitable as bedding plants as well as for planting in containers.
- Amore® Queen of Hearts: Here's the nameProgram: With red hearts on a yellow background, each individual blossom proclaims a message of love. It reaches a height of 40 cm.
- Crazytunia® Stonewashed: No flower is ever the same on this strain. The color palette ranges from strong to soft violet to creamy yellow. It is robust, weatherproof, vigorous and flowers continuously. The growth height reaches 30 - 50 cm.
- Duet Double Petunia: The double flowers impress with the play of colors of their salmon-colored, pink and white tips. A sheltered location should be considered. The variety has a growth height of 40 cm.
- Mirage Red Morn: Brightens up any border with its red-rimmed, white-eyed flowers. Here a growth height of 40 cm is reached.
Overwintering Petunias
Most of the petunias that we sell here are annuals. We enjoy their flowers until the first frost, but then they make their last trip to the compost. But does it really have to be? The answer is: No, it doesn't have to. As already mentioned in the section "Pruning petunias", the plants can also be overwintered. The petunias must move to sheltered winter quarters before the first frost. This is the case in September or October. The plants are cut back to a shoot length of 20 cm and overwintered in a bright place at 5 - 10°C.
During the winter, the plants are only watered so that the soil does not dry out completely. In addition, there is no fertilization. From February, the hibernators are then slowly awakened by being placed outside on frost-free days. From mid-May, when there is no longer any danger of frost, they can finally move outside again. More details and tricks for a successful overwintering of the petunia can be found here.