Peonies are shrubs or perennials that die back in autumn. Wilted plant parts have to be cut - but when and how?
First of all, we would like to point out that there are two types of peonies: On the one hand, shrub peonies, which only develop herbaceous, above-ground parts of the plant and withdraw them again in winter, and on the other hand, tree peonies, whose shoots gradually become lignified and are therefore year-round can be seen in the garden.
Pruning a tree peony (for example Paeonia Lutea hybrid) is not difficult to carry out and does not follow any fixed rules. If the tree peony has been planted in a favorable location, it will branch out evenly and develop an attractive shrub shape all by itself. And the pruning of a perennial peony (for example Paeonia lactiflora) is hardly worth mentioning, since this plant withdraws its above-ground life into the ground in winter. In some cases, however, the gardener of this plant genus can skilfully reach out under the arms or the branches. In the following we reveal what you need to consider when pruning your peonies.
Pruning peonies when?
The time when the peony wants to be pruned is the second half of the year. Depending on the type of pruning to be done, this time varies from June to December. The different types of cuts, on which the point in time depends, are explained below.
Pruning peonies: procedure depending on the type of cut
Depending on whether it is a shrub or perennial peony, there are different procedures. There are even three different types of pruning for the tree peony. Because this peony does not retreat into the ground and gradually lignifies on its shoots. It springs from the ground in multiple shoots and ideally branches out evenly above ground. How to properly prune the tree peony is explained below.
Pruning shrub peonies: the care cut
The working method in theCare provides that all dead and dried up parts of the plant are removed. These can either be individual branches or flowers. As winter draws to a close, it is advisable, for both aesthetic and plant hygiene reasons, to prune away the dead wood on which there are no swelling, sprouting buds.
Pruning tree peonies: the topiary
This cut is usually rare, but can occur if the peony is in too heavy or nutrient-poor substrate or if the planting depth is not sufficient. Under these circumstances a peony cannot branch properly, but develops one or two branches from the base, which are bare of leaves below and, from their excessive length, buckle under the weight of the flowers. To counteract this appearance, prune the peony back in the fall. Between October and December, the peony is pruned back to the ground, which encourages the formation of buds at the base.
Afterwards, a mainly organic fertilizer is carefully worked in and a well-aerated substrate is mixed in around the plant. A long-term fertilizer such as our Plantura organic flower fertilizer is ideal. It can also happen that the peony hardly grows on existing shoots and the formation of flowers decreases. This is often seen in connection with the emergence of many new shoots at the base. This can be prevented by removing the new shoots from the base so that all the energy goes into the existing branches and the flowering process is strengthened again. In this case, a dose of organic fertilizer should also follow, optimally potassium carbonate (potash).
Pruning Tree Peonies: Treating Damage
In the case of tree peonies, mechanical damage to the above-ground parts of the plant can result from snow loads, strong winds, lawn mowers or careless handling. If this happens in young specimens, the extent of damage depends on the depth of planting. Cut off any damage to the peony cleanly. If the grafting site is well covered with soil, it is likely that the surrounding buds will be undamaged, since the junction between scion and rootstock is underground. As a result, the scion initially still has the resistant roots of the "wild" rootstock, but is stimulated to do so over time by contact with the earthdevelop their own roots. Later, the scion should have developed its own root ball. If necessary, the peony can also be given better support with three supports. With older and well-branched specimens, it is sufficient to cleanly cut off the damaged wood. Even with more serious injuries, the chances of survival are very high.
Pruning perennial peonies: The clean-up cut
Pruning a perennial peony is easy to implement and is limited to a cleaning measure in autumn, since the plants let their above-ground organs die off and retreat to the ground over the winter. So cut the peony down to about 10 cm above the ground in autumn between September and October, so that there is no habitat for fungi, which could pose a threat when new growth occurs. An alternative to autumn is the period in spring. The advantage of this is that there are no longer any frosts that can penetrate the plant through the cuts and cause parts to freeze to death. In addition, withered foliage also acts as an insulating winter shelter for the underlying sensitive base containing the buds.
Pruning peonies: pruning faded flowers
The faded parts of the peony plant pose a risk of infection. Therefore, peonies should also be cut after flowering in June or July. Doing this will prevent the flowers of the tree peony from rotting, which increases the risk of disease. For example, fungi could thrive in the withered parts of plants, as they form a small, sheltered, and moist habitat. It is better to prevent this instead of resorting to a pesticide later.
Pruning and cutting peonies for the vase
Another way to enjoy peonies is to bring them into the house from your garden with a vase. However, there are a few points that you should pay attention to. A detailed description of this can be found in our special article on peonies in a vase.
In order to let them shine in their most beautiful splendor, it is important to fertilize the peonies in addition to pruning. Here you can find out what you should pay attention to.