Building compost: instructions from a professional

• Which composter is the best?
• Compost: Ideal location and property line
• Build compost from wood, metal, concrete or pallets
• Build your own worm box: Instructions
• Build your own Bokashi: Instructions

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You can build a simple compost yourself. Read everything you need to know about material, ventilation, coverage and boundary distance here.

Even if the wide range of offers on the market suggests it: You don't have to invest a lot of money to get a high-quality composter. If you invest less money and a little more time, you can create your own compost in a unique model that you design yourself. Aside from your craft satisfaction, it is also eco-friendly to use leftover materials. In this article you can find out about different models, the choice of location and the properties of good composters. Then you will find step-by-step instructions on how to build a rotting box, a quick composter, a worm box and a Bokashi bucket. But which composter is best for you?

Which composter is the best?

Depending on your individual needs, there is also the perfect composter for you. If you swing cordless screwdriver and saw, you can build this exactly to your own liking. An important factor here is space: a city apartment without a garden or large balcony can use a worm box or two Bokashi buckets to recycle waste to save space. However, no composting actually takes place in the Bokashi bucket - see the relevant section below for more information. A small garden is best looked after with a space- and time-saving quick or thermal composter. In larger gardens there is more room for a fenced or simple compost heap and very spacious gardens are well suited for one or more rolling composters. Of course, the amount of waste produced also plays a role: if almost all the waste is kitchen waste, you can hardly run an entire compost heap with it. For the smallest amounts, we therefore recommend the Bokashi, a worm box, a small quick or thermal composter or a single roll composter. Normal to large composters and delimited compost heaps - so-called rotting boxes - are best suited for medium-sized quantities. If you want to recycle a lot of material, the only option is to use several composting boxes or a simple, long oneRent viable. Brief descriptions of the individual variants can be found in the following section. You can find more detailed information on correct composting in this special article.

Compost bin in the garden

Here are the possibilities for composters in the garden:

• Compost heaps, also simply called compost heaps, are the most original form of composting. It can be stacked up to 2.5m wide and 1.5m high. In a rotting box, on the other hand, the dimensions are more compact. You can use multiple boxes to collect, layer and turn the compost. A good alternating layer of coarse and fine material can even eliminate the need to turn the compost heap.
• Quick and thermal composters are characterized by compact dimensions and the development of composting-friendly conditions. Smaller quantities can also be composted in them, which would not achieve sufficient thermal insulation as a heap. Thermal composters have additional insulation and allow the effective composting phase to be extended over the year. Careful layering of different materials and use of structural material is very important when using quick or thermal composters as they cannot be repositioned.
• Roller composters, on the other hand, do not have to be layered or moved: since they are constantly being moved, the compost is regularly mixed and aerated. The volume is limited here so as not to make it too difficult for you. You can only ever remove one compost mixture from a roll composter, while other composters also allow you to remove different degrees of rotting.

Compost bin for balcony and apartment

Even if you don't have a garden, you don't have to do without a composter entirely. The options for balconies and apartments can be found here.

• Composting takes place in a worm box through the targeted use of special compost worms. This produces vermicompost, which is very rich in nutrients. During composting, the volume of your compost is reduced by up to 90% and a large and well-run worm box can use the waste of a four-person household well. Since it is a very small and sensitive ecosystem, you should observe and look after the worm box a little more intensively than a composter in the garden.
• In the Bokashi bucket there is actually no composting, but ratherfermentation takes place. This is carried out by lactic acid bacteria, which produce lactic acid from simple sugars during lactic acid fermentation in order to gain energy for life. Fermentation can only succeed under anaerobic conditions - i.e. in the absence of oxygen. Bokashi tea, which can be used as a liquid fertilizer, is also produced during fermentation. After two to three weeks, a full bucket of organic waste has become finished Bokashi. It can then be incorporated flat into beds or tubs, or composted in the composter. For a household with four people, it is sufficient to operate two to three buckets alternately.

Tip: If you don't have space to produce enough compost for your plants, you can also use high-quality organic fertilizers with a long-term effect, such as our Plantura organic universal fertilizer. These provide your plants with all the important nutrients and do not have to be laboriously prepared first.

Compost: Ideal location and property line

The location of the compost affects the speed of composting, but it can also be a point of contention with the neighbor or get in the way quickly - if it is very far away from the house and garden.

Compost and property line

However, we have good news here: A composter or compost heap is not considered a structural feature in Germany and can therefore be placed as close to the property line as you like. Up to a daily throughput of 10 tons of compost, each composting plant does not require a permit. However, we would like to strongly recommend that you consult with your neighbors. Since improper composting can also result in unpleasant odors or even rats discovering the compost for themselves, you are ultimately very dependent on his goodwill. You can also take legal action against the annoyance caused by smells and vermin.

The right compost location

The ideal location for your compost is protected from strong sunlight, cold wind and severe frost. A semi-shady place away from the wind and surrounded by hedges or buildings, for example, is ideal. This is the best way to achieve a constant temperature and moisture content in the compost. The soil under the compost should be open, as lively and loose as possible. The composting microorganisms migrate from the soil into the compost material - and when they are finished, they stay in it. Last but not least, the available space is also important: have enough freedom of movement to move your compostimplement if necessary? Do you have space to sort the compost? Would you like to add a shredder to shred compost? Of course, the perfect compost location rarely exists. However, you can modify the given circumstances - for example by planting a windbreak hedge or a shady small tree - or accept slower composting. After all, your path to the compost can also be decisive, because many people usually prefer short distances.

Tip: If you have very infertile, poor soil under your composter, you should consider inoculating the prepared compost with microorganisms. This can be done with compost from another heap, for example, or with the products sold as 'compost starters'. But be careful to buy a product with microorganisms and not one that only contains fertilizer and lime. Compost worms can also be used if they cannot migrate naturally.

Summary of compost location and property line:

• A compost is not considered a building and can therefore stand without a distance to the property line
• To avoid arguments, it is often advisable to talk to your neighbors
• The perfect location for a compost is sheltered from the wind, partially shaded, protected from severe frost, over a fertile, loose and open patch of soil and close to where the compost is being made
• You should also have enough space to work and sort the compost there

Build compost from wood, metal, concrete or pallets

You can build a compost bin from different materials; if you want to act according to ecological principles, then the use of leftover materials or recycling is an option. Wood is the easiest to work with and properly constructed, a wooden rotting box can last a long time. Even construction from pallets is possible. In addition, wood is the cheapest material. The construction made of metal, such as old fence elements, expanded metal or even galvanized elements, is very durable. If you have the material and the necessary tools, you will surely enjoy it in the short and long term. Brick compost surrounds are also possible, albeit a bit complicated. Ensuring ventilation in particular requires some skill here, since inHoles in the masonry have to appear at regular intervals. Of course, combinations of different materials are often useful. But please never get the idea of creating a subsurface seal made of paving stones or poured concrete for your compost. This idea often comes from the memory of farmer's manure heaps, but it hinders the composting curtains in the long term.

Tip: Manure heaps on livestock farms should not be composted on the sealed surfaces, but only stored. Since manure is a very nutrient-rich material, the subsoil must be protected above all from the high nitrogen concentrations. The stored manure should then usually be used for fertilization. Since composting for too long can lead to a reduction in the plant fertilizing effects, it is prevented here.

What a good composter should be able to do

A good compost should…

• … open at the bottom but protected against entry of voles
• … be bordered on at least three sides by well-air-permeable elements
• … allow easy removal and turning of compost on the fourth page
• … be fixed to the ground in a durable and resilient manner - provided it is not mobile
• … possess insulation
• … own a cover

Build your own compost: Instructions

To build a simple wooden rotting box and some wire fence you need the following materials:

• Measuring tape or ruler
• Wooden or plastic mallet (large) for driving in wooden stakes (or a stake driver)
• 4 sharpened wooden posts, at least 10 cm diameter, 150 cm high
• Level
• Nails, about 3.1mm x 70mm
• Chain Link Fence Approximately 2.5cm Grid Size 1m x 4.5m
• Hand tacker or cordless tacker and wire staples (or metal staples)
• 4 wooden slats, about 3 cm x 3 cm, about 100 cm long
• Robust plastic tarpaulin, which must be UV-resistant for a long time, 1 m x 4.5 m in size
• chick wire, 180 cm x 180 cm
• Wooden boards, about 10 cm x 2 cm, about 150 cm long
• Side cutters
• wood saw
• Hammer (300 - 500 g)

We have summarized all the work steps for you below:

1. Choose an area of 150 cm x 150 cm.
2. Hit everyoneInsert a wooden post about 50 cm deep into the corner of the surface and use a spirit level to check whether the posts are plumb.
3. Nail a board horizontally from the outside to two posts at the back, left and right, just above the ground. The front remains open.
4. Cut the chicken wire to the post height and staple it to the post around the three back sides from the outside. If the stapling doesn't work, you can also nail staples.
5. Saw off the four wooden strips at the level of the posts and nail them to the two front posts so that they form a vertical rail on the left and right for inserting the boards used. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the thickness of the board so that they slide easily. (distance about 2.4 cm with 2 cm thick boards)
6. Line the inside of the three wire walls with plastic wrap and nail the wrap to the inside of the posts.
7. Line the bottom with chicken wire, bend up the sides and staple to the back, left and right of the horizontal board near the bottom (Step 3).
8. Saw the wooden boards and push them between the strips at the front so that the front side is closed.
9. Puncture the foil through the chain link fence from the outside, creating many air ducts for ventilation.
10. You can later use a sufficiently large piece of foil to cover the compost.

Your composting box is now ready for use and can be filled. Always provide a shading cover for the compost.

Tip: This construction will last longer if you dig a hole for each post, fill it halfway with gravel and hammer in the posts. Then you have to fill the hole and start vigorously. In this way, the water can run off better and the post will rot less quickly. Another option is to use post shoes into which you can screw the posts. The post shoe is concreted in or hammered in and the post does not touch the moist ground at all. The type of wood used also plays a major role: If it is impregnated, varnished, or if it is larch or oak, the construction will be more durable.

Build your own quick composter: Instructions

Used to build a quick composter out of a plastic or metal barrelyou will need the following:

• A large, clean plastic or metal drum with a lid, at least 75 liters
• chicken wire
• Threaded screws and nuts, suitable for the wall thickness of the barrel used
• Cordless screwdriver and drill for the barrel material (one for drilling large holes, one in the strength of the threaded screws used)
• Jigsaw with plastic/metal blade
• Hinge(s)
• A fastener (e.g. bolt)

These are the necessary steps:

1. Drill plenty of air holes in the sides of the barrel and thoroughly poke or jigsaw slits in the bottom of the barrel as well. Provide the lid with two air holes.
2. Line the bottom with chicken wire and fold the sides over so it's at least 20cm perpendicular to the barrel walls. Leave out the wire mesh where the removal flap will later be.
3. Draw a large flap near the ground through which the finished compost will later be removed. Mark the location of the hinges, latch and all screws. Carefully saw out the flap.
4. Deburr the edges of the flap and opening to reduce the risk of injury.
5. Drill holes where shown to attach hinges and clasp. Attach both with studs and nuts.
6. If necessary, create a stop for the flap, for example by screwing two wooden bars into the opening.
7. Close the keg with the lid.

Your quick composter is now ready for use. It is filled from above and you can remove the compost from below after the composting has finished.

Tip: Dye the composter black to increase heat from the sun. Line the walls of the barrel from the outside in with insulating material, fine wire fencing and thin garden fleece. The insulation material and the fleece must be perforated very thoroughly. The insulation then ensures an evenly warm temperature inside the composter.

Build your own worm box: Instructions

Choosing the right dimensions is very important when building a worm box. Your worm box needs 1000 cm² of floor space for every 500 g of compost you produce each week. You can of course divide this floor space into several stacked boxes. Three boxes measuring 17 cmx 20 cm have a total area of over 1000 cm².

To build an indoor worm box you will need:

• Several clean, non-translucent, nestable wooden, plastic, or metal boxes
• Cordless screwdriver with a drill bit appropriate for the material (7 mm)
• Tap for draining worm tea, with seal
• A drill bit that fits the tap or a hand mill
• Top Box Lid
• Two thick plastic flower pots that will later serve as spacers

These are the steps:

1. Attach the drain valve as low as possible on the box that will later be at the bottom. To do this, drill or mill an appropriately sized hole in the side of the box and screw in the tap and seal. The worm tea will later collect in this box, it serves as a collecting box.
2. Drill holes about 8 cm apart in the bottoms of all the boxes that will later sit on top. Moisture and worms can move through these holes later.
3. Place the two spacers upside down in the bottom box. This prevents the box stacked above from sliding all the way into the bottom one, and allows a larger amount of worm tea to collect before you release it.
4. Stack the remaining boxes in the catch box and cover the top one with the lid.

Your worm box is now ready for use. When filling, you work your way up from the bottom and swap the different floors: First, the bottom box is filled with compost and compost worms. When it is two-thirds full, fill the box on top. Do this until all boxes are full. If your worm box is the right size for your needs, then the worm castings in the bottom box will be ready when the top box is full. You can now empty the bottom box, clean it and move it to the top. If the compost in the bottom box isn't ripe yet, it's better to put another floor up, because your worm box is obviously too small for the amount of waste you produce. You can tell that the compost is ripe when the worms have left the chamber and the structure of the previous waste is no longer visible.

Build your own Bokashi: Instructions

A household of four usually requires two bokashi buckets to fill the resultingTo be able to process organic waste.

To build a Bokashi Bucket you will need:

• 2 x 20 liter buckets that fit neatly inside each other
• An airtight lid for the bucket
• Tap with seal for draining Bokashi tea
• Sealing tape
• Cordless screwdriver with drill
• Cutter knife or hand mill

These are the necessary steps:

1. Drill a number of holes in the bottom of one of the two buckets. The bokashi tea will later run through these into the lower bucket.
2. Insert the perforated bucket into the collection bucket and set the position of the tap. If the upper bucket slides too far into the lower one, place something on the bottom of the lower bucket to act as a spacer.
3. Remove the upper bucket from the collection bucket and install the tap in the lower bucket: first drill a small hole and then use the utility knife to cut out a suitable circle for the tap. You can also use a matching hand mill.
4. Screw the tap and seal into the lower bucket.
5. Replace the top bucket into the catch bucket and set the height at which you want to seal the void between the bucket walls. This depends on how deep the buckets can be pushed into each other.
6. Seal the gap between the buckets with several layers of sealing tape until the buckets fit together tightly and airtight.

Your Bokashi Bucket is now ready to use. We have described how it is operated in this special article on the Bokashi Bucket.

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