Young tomato plants are pricked out and transplanted in spring, and planted out a few weeks later. We provide important tips on how to implement it successfully.

In the case of tomatoes, pricking out and planting take place between sowing and harvesting. We will provide you with instructions for both planting measures and clarify which soil is suitable.
Prick Tomatoes
When transplanting, the tomato plants are transplanted into a larger pot. Because tomatoes are heavy feeders, they need nutrient-rich soil after germination. This stimulates the growth of the plants and also prevents deficiency symptoms. More space also helps the tomatoes to develop a good root system. It is best to take some time and be patient when pricking out, because you should work very carefully.
When should tomatoes be pricked out?
The first seedlings appear just three to ten days after sowing tomatoes. These are left to grow in the seed pot for some time until the first or second pair of real leaves has formed. The two oval cotyledons are not considered here, only the typical jagged or lobed tomato leaves. Now the young plants begin to grow and need nutrients for the first time because the supply from the seed has been used up.

Which soil is suitable for pricking out tomatoes?
The optimal soil for pricking out tomatoes is already pre-fertilized, so it provides essential nutrients. In addition, it should be permeable, loose and humus and be able to store water well. Our Plantura organic tomato & vegetable soil combines all these properties and does not contain any peat, which is harmful to the environment.
Instructions: Proper pricking of tomatoes
First the little plants are carefully lifted out of the ground. This works best with a prick stick, wooden popsicle stick, or spoon. It is particularly important that neither leaves nor roots of tomato seedlingsget hurt. Then you put them in a larger pot with a diameter of 8 to 12 centimeters and nutrient-rich potting soil. It is important that you only grasp the seedlings by the leaves, never by the stem. The vital pathways for water are too easily squeezed and your tomato seedlings will soon dry up in the new pot. In the fresh soil, the plantlets should disappear into the soil at least up to the point where the cotyledons begin. They can also be used up to the base of the real leaves, but then the cotyledons should be removed. Then press the soil down lightly and water well. This way the soil is washed right up to the roots, making it easier for the roots to grow.
Should you remove the cotyledons when transplanting? The cotyledons should be snapped off when planting the tomato seedlings deeper into the soil to avoid rotting.
Pitting tomatoes at a glance:
- The seedlings are pricked out about 2 - 3 weeks after sowing as soon as the first true leaves appear.
- Lift the young plants out of the ground with a pricking stick or the handle of a spoon, only grasping the cotyledons.
- Place tomato plants in 8-12 cm diameter pots in nutrient-rich soil.
- The plants should disappear into the ground up to the base of the real leaves.
- Fill up with soil, press lightly all over, water well and place the pots in a bright, warm spot.

Plant tomatoes
In the new pot and in nutrient-rich soil, the tomato plants will quickly start to shoot up. It is particularly important to harden off the plants outdoors before planting them out, so that even cooler nights do not suddenly become fatal for the young plants later on. If the days in April are already warm and sunny, it is also possible to put the plants outside for a few days. This way they get used to the stronger sunlight outside, become more robust and continue to grow immediately after planting. But too much sun can lead to sunburn in the sensitive young plants - just like in us. The leaflets become thin, lose their green color and appear semi-translucent. Shading is therefore particularly important for the young tomatoes on sunny days. Even if the temperatures get too cool or the weather is very humid, the plants have to be brought back inside.
Tip: If the lower leaves open before plantingof the young plants have turned yellowish, both a lack of light and an undersupply of nutrients can be the cause. If there is no lack of light due to a sunny location, you should carefully fertilize your tomato plants. An organic liquid fertilizer is the best choice here, as it is applied together with the irrigation water and can also remedy acute nutrient deficiencies.
When do you plant tomatoes?
Tomatoes are sensitive to frost and are therefore not planted outdoors in pots and beds until after the ice saints, from mid-May. Warmer temperatures prevail in the greenhouse, so the tomato plants can be planted in early May.

Planting out tomatoes: planting distance and procedure
The correct planting distance for tomatoes is essential to keep the plants he althy. A distance of about 50 to 80 centimeters between the plants and 80 to 100 centimeters between individual rows is recommended. Of course, particularly vigorous wild tomatoes or wide cocktail tomatoes with several shoots need more space than tall, slender beefsteak tomatoes. That way, air can circulate between the plants, leaves don't get wet and fungal diseases have little chance to strike.
Dig as deep a hole as possible in the bed or greenhouse for the young plant. Alternatively, prepare a large pot with a volume of at least 10 liters for the tomato plants and only cover a few centimeters of the bottom of the pot with good quality potting soil. Suitable substrates must meet the same criteria as for pricking out. Free the plant from the old pot by gently pressing all around and carefully removing the plant. Now place the tomato plant in the new pot or planting hole. Just like pricking out, the plants should disappear deep into the ground so that only about a third of their length is showing. Carefully snap off the lower leaves that would otherwise disappear underground. New roots emerge underground along the stem, later facilitating nutrient and water uptake. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, which means they need quite large amounts of nutrients. For an ideal supply of nutrients, compost or a predominantly organic long-term fertilizer, such as our Plantura organic tomato fertilizer, is mixed into the excavated soil during planting. The nutrients are released gently and slowly over weeks, so that with just one more application of fertilizeronly needs to be fertilized once every three months.
Fill the pot or the planting hole with soil and press it down lightly. Now it just needs to be watered properly. For particularly tall plants, a support, a wooden stick or strings that are tied to a framework are recommended. Plant sticks have to carry a relatively high weight for beefsteak tomatoes and should therefore be sufficiently robust. Sturdy bamboo sticks, hazelnut twigs or spiral metal sticks are best suited. The latter have the advantage that the tomatoes do not have to be untied as often due to their spiral shape. Wrap the cords around the full length of the stem, guiding the plant upwards. Tie the plant loosely to a wooden stick with a string. Upright plants make harvesting easier and reduce the risk of the plant or its fruits becoming infected with pathogens through contact with the soil. You can find out more about tying tomatoes in our special article.
Tip: It is also possible to plant tomatoes in raised beds.

Plant tomatoes summarized:
- Plant out in the bed or in the pot from mid-May, in the greenhouse from the beginning of May.
- Keep a distance of 50 - 80 cm between plants and 80 - 100 cm between rows.
- Dig a deep hole in the ground so that 2/3 of the plants disappear.
- Add compost or primarily organic long-term fertilizers to the excavated soil.
- Water well and support tomato plants.
So that nothing goes wrong after planting the tomatoes, we have summarized 5 typical mistakes when growing tomatoes for you here and give you tips on how to avoid them.